I am planning on buying an LS1 01-02 Z28 camaro sometime next summer.

I have heard such bad things about the 4L60E's durability, I am also hearing good. I really am on the fence on a 3.23 auto car or a T56 car. I will buy the car with 40-60K miles on it already as my budget is around 13K + TTL.

If I buy a A4 3.23 car, what are the chances I will get one that is already fried? (Assuming I check fluide color/test drive before purchase). I just can't afford to buy a new car (to me) and then replace the tranny ASAP. Thats weak.

If I went A4, I would buy a DeRale pan with 2qts extra capacity and air tubes through it. would I need an extended pickup tube for this? Also, I would add a 24K GVW B&M cooler. I live in Louisiana (110* this last summer). And want a tranny that will last me 120-150K miles if I dont flog it too bad. Will this prevent a 4L60E from slipping or dying on me?

The shift points will remain stock and the only mods besides cooling for the tranny would be a DMH E-cutout and a lid/filter, so 320whp or less.

WIll it last? Or should I just go T56? My main concern is durability. Someone told me most M6's need a rebuild around 80K miles. I just dont know which one will last longer all things being = Any advice/supporting evidence/

 

Either will be fine for a bolt-on car. The 4L60E can easily handle up to 375 rwhp without breaking a sweat. And built 4L60E's have had success under 600 rwhp vehicles. If you get the tranny cooler and replace the fluid once a year, I can see this transmission having 100K+ miles written all over it (mine has 75K and is still going strong).

BUT

The T56 will get you better gas mileage, has less drivetrain loss (more rwhp) and most would agree is alot more "fun". But like all manuals you will eventually have to replace the clutch.

If you are a guy that loves to row gears then DEFINATELY get the manual.

BUT

If you are a guy that sees alot of stop and go traffic or trips to a drag strip then I would get the auto.

I don't see any problem with either transmission lasting a long time if driven properly so just get the one you want. If you can't decide then just look for the best deal on a car and let fate choose the transmission

 

The choice should be one of preference as opposed to durability. With a manual you have a higher chance of failing the rear, autos have a higher chance of failing the trans. Either transmission could last 200k miles just as easily as 20k miles. So as opposed to durability it should really be based upon what you want and other usability factors.

1.) If you highway drive long distances often, the manual is killer. 3-5 more mpg is possible because you are lugging around with that killer 6th gear.

2.) Performance wise, it is a near wash at least in terms of a 1/4 mile type race. Stock for stock the manual driver will need to be pretty good and/or willing to abuse the car to win consistently. Autos are very consistent, easy to launch, and an auto with a stall will eat a manual for lunch off the line. So for performance it is kind of a wash.

3.) Pride. What's your pride worth? People don't respect autos and if that bothers you, you'll need the manual.

4.) Autos are cheaper. Almost without exception two identical cars, the manual will have a ~5-10% price premium, more if it is a rare combination.

If you do go auto, take care to get a 3.23 car unless you plan on doing extensive mods anyways.

 

How common is the 3.23 option. If I have 10 cars to choose from, per se, will half have the 3.23 or is it more like a parkinglot full of Vettes and looking for a Z06 version.

 

eeeeh...Called my friend and she told me she would re-build a T56 for $650 but it would cost me $1250 to get the 4L60E re-build (if anything went wrong with either). Dang...so for the price of a cooler/deep-pan/fluide-filter chance I am easily half way to a re-built T56. Yeah...I am thinking T56 now, anyone care to change my mind with hard evidence/facts? (I can drive a stick through H-town with a poorly tuned bogging carb'ed 5.0 with a cam and not care--preference is not an issue.)

 

You can buy a 4L60E off ebay for $500 so I wouldn't bother to rebuild one for a bolt-on car. If you take care of the one that comes with the car it could last a long time anyway.

 

I think it's about 50/50. All WS6's and SS's came with them standard. Alot of people ordered it as an option for obvious reasons. Just look at the drivers door. There will be a white sticker with RPO codes.

GU2 = 2.73
GU5 = 3.23