My 94 tranny just gave out. I called up my local junk yard and they said they have a 4L60E for me, and mine is an A4, so same thing, but they said the electrical connectors are a little bit different from a 94 to 95 and it won't fit. Will it not work or are they just saying stuff?

 

Im pretty sure all 94-97 Trans are the same. I know the T56 is, but unsure about the Auto

 

They are both the same. The 1993 had a 700R4 (non electronic) if you look on the right side of the tranny you will see a big round electric plug by the dipstick tube make sure the other tranny you get has that also.

 

I have read on this board that the 95 and later trans has a different type of converter lockup and won't work on a 94 without modification. If the salvage yard says it won't work I would belive them and look for a 94 model.

 

Thats weird, because my buddy with a 94 Z28 used a 4L60E from a 96 TA without a single problem

 

Weird. Well i found this article that states whats going on with my tranny, and maybe a possible solution. Hopefully it's just these sensors instead of the whole dang tranny. Here's the article...

4L60E / 4L80E
The transmissions above, are rear wheel drive 4speed automatics that are all computer controlled. Common problems are: Check engine light comes on. The transmission shifts erratically, slips or does not shift at all.
These problems can be caused when the external sensors on the vehicle go bad. The input and output speed sensors, throttle position sensor or vehicle speed sensors need to be checked. Always run a scanner first to see if a sensor is causing your problem. The 4L60E transmission also has a problem with a hard 1-2 shift when hot, and a 1870 code. When rebuilding the transmission, I recommend that you always replace the valve body plate and install a sonnex Valve Kit TCC Regulator W/Sleeve. This is to help against having these problems in the future. On the 4L60E make sure you always us a AC Delco hardened shell when rebuilding the transmission.

The 4L80E transmission has a lot of problems with the input and output speed sensors on the side of the transmission. They should always be checked first if you are having a shifting problem.
An ignition switch that goes bad can cause a false shift solenoid code that comes up on a scanner. So be careful.


ShibbyZ

EDIT: forgot to mention what is going on with my tranny. Well it won't shift out of first if i constantly have pressure on the gas pedal. The rev limiter won't even pick it up, it'll hold at 6000 RPM. It'll shift though if i take my foot off the gas then lightly push back down.

 

NOt positve exactly what but I agree theres a difference.. I believe it to be an extra wire..
The difference is PWM[pulse width modulation]
Also, I am pretty sure that if you swap the valve bodys it would work..
Digging way into memory here, so not 100% sure..

 

Ok, so any help on how to change the valve body?


ShibbyZ

 

Trust me they're the same, junk yard people don't now $hit about cars, (they think they do, but I like making them look dumb) so get the tranny bolt it up and ride.

 

But here's the other thing, I was told it's 1 of 3 things or 2 or all.

1 - Bad Vehicle Speed Sensor
2 - Change valve bodies
3 - Get a new tranny

I'm kind of hoping it has something to do with 1 or 2, not 3, seeing as I don't have all the money in the world.

 

If you say you when your RPMs are high and you take your foot off the gas and then it will shift then its not going to help changing the speed sensor nor changing the valve body. If you lived near St. Louis, MO. I could rebuild it for you for around $200 labor + parts, but you will need a rebuild or a new tranny.

 

I sure wish i lived near there now, i was quoted 1500 just in labor for a rebuild here. But i'm in the complete opposite direction, i'm in minnesota.

But just to clear up what is EXACTLY wrong with my tranny/shifting.

My reverse works just fine, so does neutral (joke, haha) and park are all fine. My manual second gear doesn't work. I mean the second like how it goes...

-P
-R
-N
-D with OD
-D
-2 <--- that's the gear that doesn't work

When i put it in second it sounds like it wants to grab something but doesn't. Then when i put it in either drive with OD or just drive it sometimes has a hard shift if i'm pushing on the gas before it shifts (by the way, it takes a good 2-3 seconds for it to shift into any gear, is that right or broken?). Then when it does shift into first, it'll stay there if i have constant pressure on the gas pedal. It will rev all the way to 6000RPM and will not downshift. Then when i take my foot off the gas then push back down it will shift into second and it feels like it has so much more power. First gear seems really weak and almost doesn't feel like first, but more of a "almost neutral, close to drive" type of gear. Then if i push down fast or floor it, it will shift into what i think is neutral because it will rev super high, sometimes to 6k and it won't go anywhere, just like it was in neutral.

So now that you guys got the WHOLE scoop on my crappy tranny, any help, or rebuild?


ShibbyZ

 

I just rebuilt my buddies tranny in his 96 z28 and he was having just about the same problem your having so I rebuilt with the master overhaul kit. Yes it does cost a lot of money to rebuild at a shop, I'm an ASE certified mechanic and I do tranny rebuilds all the time, and a lot on the side, (outside of my job) so I don't charge much at all, and I'm real good at it, so its easy for me to rebuild them at a cheaper cost to my customers. If you go to a GM dealership you can buy a brand new one for around $1400 and it comes with a 3 year 50,000 mile warrenty. ( Dealerships very in prices so shop around for the cheaper deal if you plan on going this route)

Heres the list of parts I changed in my buddies 96 z28 tranny.

PRECISION MASTER OVERHAUL KIT

MODIFIED SUNSHELL DRIVE GEAR TO INCREASE REAR PLANETARY LUBRICATION
DIRECT/REVERSE INPUT DRUM
New .500 Mega Boost Valve & Sleeve
Thoroughly checked & inspected Spline, Drum casting
New High Performance Friction Clutches
New Steel Friction Plates
RECALIBRATED VALVEBODY w/UPDATE TV VALVE ASSEMBLY
New Double Lip Seals (Front & Rear)
New Alto Red Eagle Race Clutches
NEW LOW/REVERSE HEAVY DUTY SPRAG
New High-Temp. Performance Center Seal
New Bushings & Torrington Bearings
1-2 shift solenoid
2-3 shift solenoid
force motor
manifold pressure switch
3-2 shift solenoid
PWM switch
Shift kit
New Teflon coated Pump Bushing
New Stator bushings & O-rings
Drain back opened
Modified converter clutch valve increases lube in lockup
Hardened 10 Vane Pump Rotor & Guide
New Pump Vanes
Sealed power Unbreakable Vane Rings
Heavy Duty Double Slide Springs
New Reverse Boost Valve & Sleeve
New Steel Check *****
New Rubber Seals for Drums & Pistons
Heavy Duty Front Seal Retainer Clip
DIRECT/REVERSE INPUT DRUM
TURBINE INPUT CLUTCH HOUSING
New Governor & TCC Filters
Thoroughly checked & inspected Spline, Drum casting
New Teflon seals & O-rings
New Steel Friction Plates
High Performance 3-4 Clutch Release Spring Kit
Modified 3-4 Clutch pack; additional clutches & steels
Alto Kolene Steels
NEW HIGH PERFORMANCE ALUMINUM SERVO
MODIFIED INPUT SUN GEAR TO INCREASE FORWARD PLANETARY LUBRICATION
UPDATED/MODIFIED ACCUMULATORS
RAYBESTOS PRO SERIES KEVLAR BAND
High-Temp. Tolerant
Improved holding power
New Gaskets, Seals, O-rings, Teflon rings
Added strength at Strut Support
UPDATED & MODIFIED GOVERNOR w/SPRING KIT & NYLON GEAR
RECALIBRATED VALVE PLATE FOR SHIFT FIRMNESS
NEW HIGH FLOW FILTER
NEW 29 ELEMENT HEAVY DUTY FORWARD INPUT SPRAG
New High Performance Friction Clutches

 

I have never seen a tranny before nore do i know what they look like or how they function on the inside so rebuilding it myself if out of the question. But what about changing the silenoids, can i do that myself? I was thinking it's the silenoid because it doesn't shift into second, it just hits the rev limiter like it's the last gear, and second, it doesn't go into overdrive, it'll just stay in 3rd. I'm trying to investigate this as much as possible hoping i can find the problem and avoid a rebuild.

 

I changed the valve body on my buddies 96 z28 first before we went with the rebuild to try and save him some money but it didn't help any. Thiers just way to many parts inside the Auto tranny, and its real hard to say exactly what part it is thats causing the problems, thats why we just rebuild them. Its not like taking a car for a test drive and saying "oh that vibration is just the tires out of balance".