Searching away here and can't pinpoint an archived thread.

It would be in a 96 TA that would see the track maybe once, and the most twice, a year.

The car is in the sig

thnx,

lbrowne

 

no 10 bolt is safe from a manual and dr's most will say to step up to a 12 bolt asap.

lata
Bill

 

I've got the stock 10 bolt, 4:10's, M6 and a little over 40 runs on it over the last year or so at the strip all with dr's. I used a solid pinion spacer, set the gears pretty tight, a rear support cover with preload studs and new main bearing studs. I launched it fairly hard on all of those runs at 3500-4000rpm with a couple at 4500 and the rear has been holding fine for me so far. It's not any 9inch/12bolt in strength now but when put together right with the right parts the 10 bolt isn't as bad as most people think. I think the majority of the stories about people blowing up the rear the first time at the track are cars with bone stock rears. Just my $.02

 

Can you go into a little more detail as to what I will need then? For 99% of the time, she'll have regular street tires on her. Then for the once or twice I go to the track, she'll have DRs on.

So I'm all ears...er eyes to your details.

Thnx

lbrowne

 

i think thirdgen.org goes into specifics on how to build up a 10bolt pretty good...might wanna check that out.

lata
Bill

 

As long as you drive the car and not abuse it any 10 bolt is safe. Run the car untill the toungue hangs out but dont abuse. Ive been running my 4.56's and 315/35/17 nittos for prolly 6 months and im good. I ran the 4.10's before the 4.56 and had no problem. You should be good to go.

 

The three most important things you can do to strenthen these rears as far as I know is to use a solid pinion spacer instead of the standard crush collar, a TA style rear support cover with preload studs, and to replace the four standard bolts holding the main bearing caps in place with a stud kit. Some people will even upgrade the axles but I didn't go that far. From what I hear it's not usually the axles that will go it's the gears. It's a little more difficult to set the gear lash with a solid pinion spacer, I had a mechanic friend install them that has experience setting up hundreds of rears. It took him longer than usuall to set up the rear with the solid spacers but he thought it was a much better design than the standard crush collar. I think the crush collar is the most likely reason these rears come apart. After repeated abuse the gear patter will shift apart with the crush collar which can eventually lead the gears to break, the solid spacer will not crush over time keeping the pattern more consistent. That along with the rear cover and stud kit will help keep everything tighter during hard launching.

 

You have a good site with links to everything you have purchased. Thats helping me alot

 

Thanks, glad it was helpfull

 

The 10 bolt has it's limits, even if you "know" how to launch it correctly with an M6.

That being said if you or whoever installs the Ratach solid pinion spacer knows how to do it properly, it does make a difference in longevity.

But as the launch rpm goes, the power output of the motor goes up and the stickyness of the tires and clutch increases, things are going to break in the 10 bolt.