Drivetrain Clutch, Torque Converter, Transmission, Driveline, Axles, Rear Ends

2800 stall and stock rear/gears???

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Old Nov 10, 2006 | 04:10 PM
  #16  
30696bird's Avatar
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From: dalton Ga.
When your rear goes BOOOOOOOM (and it probably will) don't say he didn't warn ya. I doubt he was telling to you it "wouldn't work" as much as he meant these are some VERY weak rears (ask me how I know ). With that being said I would put a stall in it.
Old Nov 10, 2006 | 04:59 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by 30696bird
When your rear goes BOOOOOOOM (and it probably will) don't say he didn't warn ya. I doubt he was telling to you it "wouldn't work" as much as he meant these are some VERY weak rears (ask me how I know ). With that being said I would put a stall in it.
Granted these gears are weak but this guy is a bolt on car.... he isn't making near the power you are.
Old Nov 10, 2006 | 05:10 PM
  #18  
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I have a 3200 in mine with the stock 3.23s, I dont see the point in spending money a 10 bolt.
Old Nov 10, 2006 | 08:40 PM
  #19  
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maybe it was just me, but I put a 3k stall in mine and hated it for daily driving, took almost 3k rpms to get the car to move and nothing less than 2600 rpms driving around at any speed unless the convertor locked.
Had it restalled to 2400 and then it was at 2400 rpms all the time unless locked...finally went back to a restalled stocker, stalled to 2200 and its alot better for normal driving, will burn the tires off still at a punch at any speed. The 3k stall on this car, the 95 TA, just did not behave the same way a 3k stalled behaved on other cars or a friends 3600, which you could barely tell a difference from stock until you nailed it.

As far as PCM changes, I think with any increase in stall, and few minor tranny table changes will help things. With the higher stall, mine would shift to 2nd almost immediately hitting the pedal. I changed it to stay in first from .7sec and 10mph to 1.5 sec and 14mph..upped all shift points just a tad and upped the down shift points just as much, and upped the main line pressures so the firmness of the shift would come back as the higher stall made all the shifts feel non-existant. also helps efficiency on the upper rpms when the convertor is not locked.
Old Nov 10, 2006 | 11:14 PM
  #20  
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I should point out that I had a shiftkit installed at the same time as my converter and cooler. So I cant really comment on the difference of a high stall with or without a kit
Old Nov 11, 2006 | 12:06 PM
  #21  
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hahha i sold you that stalll toby...glad its workin out for ya bro
Old Nov 11, 2006 | 05:10 PM
  #22  
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LoL yea its working great If your driving it withouts slicks your rear should be fine even with 3.73's. Of course going the 3.73's will be weaker than 3.23's and most pple that I've seen on the board don't really break very many rears with the A4 + 3.373's + slicks even at the track (but it can still happen).

Sooo... Go for a 2800 stall . Anything over 3000 and you might have to mess with the computer. If you you do decide go above 3k, I can take a shot at reprogramming for ya if you stop by. I'm not 100% sure the fix will work but from what i've been able to figure out it "should" work
Old Nov 11, 2006 | 05:12 PM
  #23  
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ya bro my whole tranny is gettin rebuilt... and im ready for the 2800 now so...we will see how the re-build goes...gonne be expensive
Old Nov 12, 2006 | 02:11 PM
  #24  
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anyone have a link?
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