3DFORMULA

Removing bolts to change the rearend is what then? The op ask for bolt-on help to go fast, I have provided some intelligence on bolt-ons that actually work. Now I'll show off.

95firehawk

There's a Kills section post if I ever saw one.

Air foil was on the car when I bought it (as well as the K&N.) I bought the HPP to up the rev limiter. Didn't install the Powertune . It netted me an instant 4 tenths as well as 4 mph by not having to shift into third. Hmm...poor modding choices.

That's a very rare occurance. Even for today.

AL SS590 M6

Whoa there, where did I say that I didn't believe your times? I just said that saying that some other car somewhere else in the country has a mechanical problem because his time slip doesn't match yours is just plain wrong.

bkpliskin

Was it your car that I saw in the LT1 vs LS1 nitrous shootout in GMHTP in 04 with tony s?
From what I remember, you were running 10.9's and hanging with cars that seemed to have far more done to them at the time

TedH

Hey, I was in that issue too...

bkpliskin

haha, sorry about that... I got the issue a couple years after it actually debuted... a friend gave it to me after I converted my 3.4L to an LT1 car. Which car were you driving? I can't find the issue right now but I know I still have it. As I remember it, there were only 2 LT1's, Shawns and Tonys. Were you driving a different car back then or is my memory a little fuzzy?

JakeRobb

There's a generally accepted definition of "bolt-ons". It does not mean that the parts are attached using bolts. Some people like to stretch the definition that way (like you're doing), but that's not what it means. Superchargers are attached using bolts. Hell, pretty much everything involves bolts. Not all of them are bolt ons.

Bolt-ons are engine modifications that don't require removing the valve covers or the oil pan, with the exception of power adders (nitrous, turbocharger, or supercharger). Examples:

* underdrive pulleys
* electric water pump
* cold air intake
* intake manifold
* exhaust
* throttle body
* MAF
* thermostat

That's what everyone in this thread is talking about, except for you. You can go on yammering about how all of your stuff is bolted on; it's still not what we're trying to discuss.

Okay? Good.

3DFORMULA

So, I guess that your higher hp, slower time producing, sig cars are a better route to go than my suggestion to the fella. Bolt-ons that work, are a smarter path. I'm not yammering about just my car. Bolt-ons that WORK, would be the best suggestion for the op. Check some of the signatures of the guys. I'm way under 300hp and lifting a wheel and running 12's. Okay? Good!

Shawn 97 Z28 M6

Yes. That was mine. At least someone appreciated my "stock rusted steel driveshaft", "decarbon shocks", and all that stuff.

One of my pics from the magazine is my avatar.

JakeRobb

I'm not making any claims about my cars. My times are on street tires and aren't anything to brag about. If I had money to spend on making my cars faster, I'd be doing several of the mods you recommended.

Modifications that work are indeed a smarter path. My point is only that the modifications you're recommending don't fit the traditional definition of "bolt-ons."

This whole conversation began with this post:

And what you're recommending is more or less exactly what he said would be necessary (except that instead of brutal disregard, you're just replacing the 10-bolt and clutch).

So, we all agree, except that you (3DFORMULA) are the only one that considers a complete rear end swap and full suspension to be "bolt-ons".

3DFORMULA

And really all that I'm saying, and have done as example, is replace the parts that cannot handle the brutal abuse of the drag strip for a quick timeslip on a stock motor. And it realistly is just a matter of some bolt-ons. Some of ya may not consider this a traditional definition of "bolt-ons" however, I have only bolted a few parts on the car and kept my dependability, daily driver duties, fuel economy(26mpg highway), A/C, tunes, completely comfortable 2 seater, and still managed a great timeslip for a no horsepower added, 144,000 mile LT1 F-body. If it is a timeslip improvement somebody is asking for I just like to help let them see that it is not just adding horsepower that is necessary.

Jazsun

Yeah, but adding HP is where it counts on the street. Your big old 12 bolt, suspension and whatnot arn't going to help your stock LT1 motor from getting its *** handed to it in a rollrace or highway merge. I can't belive someone would invest so much money into their car, yet not even put headers on the old LT1 - by far the best bang for buck bolt on to date for the LT1.

3DFORMULA

The OP asked "What kinda times do you run?" That can only be answered by a timeslip, which is provided from a dragstrip pass. Drag racing on the street is a STUPID, IMMATURE, DANGEROUS, ILLEGAL, and FOOLISH thing done by those who don't deserve a license. It is a priviledge to drive around my children who drive on these streets legally. Grow up boy!

However, you are correct. My bolt-ons would NOT assist in a roll race, which is NOT dragracing. So one would have to identify what it is they want to do with there car to get the correct set-up for there peticular playing.

bkpliskin

That's how I knew it was you, I saw the name shawn and then remembered seeing that picture in the magazine

and yes, I did appreciate the mods list .. kickin' *** and takin' names with a good ole LT1

that's kinda what I'm trying to do at the moment

TedH

Maybe mine was an earlier issue?

http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...e/results.html