EnFuegoZ28

I will be heading up to Phoenix this weekend to meet up with the AZFBA guys. After the cruise we will be headed out to SpeedWorld for some night drags. It will be my first runs on a track and I'm kinda excited to run.

So far here is what I have learned from reading these threads:

STAY OUT of the water box!! I will be running on street tires so I know the WB is a . I also know that I don't need a burnout. Some quick spins to clean the tires off is all I need.

Since I am A4, from what I have read, I should go on the last yellow. We shall see how that works out for me.

I will be trying a couple different launches. I will try to launch at around 1500 rpms or so. At around 1800, the brakes won't hold the car. I will also be trying to launch off idle. We shall see which one is better for the launch.

I also know not to let off too early. I've read the stories of people losing the line at the end of the track. I will be a good student and watch the other guys and pick up things as I go. I will be going with quite a few F-Bodies to the track, so I will pick their brains.

Depending on how good the air is that night and traction, I am hoping for ~13.7 or so @ ~102. Do you guys think that is a realistic number?

JakeRobb

I used to go only by what I read on here, too.

Then, one day, I decided to try a burnout. Not like the guys with drag tires do, but more than a quick spin. I spun them hard until I saw the first hint of tire smoke (3-4 seconds). The runs where I used that approach have given me the best 60' times I've ever managed (which are still mediocre at 2.1 seconds).

Looks like temps are going to be in the low 60's for you this weekend, and hot during the day. That should give you a nice warm track surface, and reasonably cool air. Good combo. Assuming track prep is good and you figure out a good launch technique, I'd say you have a decent shot at hitting those numbers.

EnFuegoZ28

Thanks for the tip. Hopefully I get around 4 runs in and I have a chance to try some different things. The mini burnout sounds like a good approach. I'd be perfectly content with a 2.0-2.1 60ft on street tires.

PSI question.

I run 34 psi. Should I put more in the fronts and less in the rears?

TedH

The reason for a "quick spin" other than cleaning off any debris, is to not heat street tires too much. If they get too hot they become more slippery rather than sticky due to the rubber compound in regular street tires. However the track surface will have as much to do with traction as the tires when in street tire trim.

I generally used about 28 pounds of air in the reas with street tires. Any less air and they would cup at the launch decreasing the actual footprint from the center out. Any more air and I had less flex in the sidewall which equated to more tire spin due to launch shock.

Try to avoid following any FWD cars. If there is someone in line with real drag radials or even better... Slicks or traditional ET Streets, try to get behind them.

FWD cars, if the use the waterbox (even with good tires) will drag water up to the start line from the rear wheels.

When you are done with cleaning off the tires try and get directly into the tracks of the car ahead of you (if they have slicks). This is where you will obtain the best launch.

I would start with an off idle launch in an attempt to best determine the state of the launch area (least likely to spin) and raise the rpms (or not) on subsequent passes based on track conditions.

Make sure your front tires are fully inflated (even slightly over inflated) to minimize drag and provide the largest target for the pre-stage and staging beams.

Don't worry about reaction time.

I suggest staging in the same manner every time since you are "new" at a track. In order to adjust staging you first need a benchmark. If you stage identically every time you can better quantify the performance of the vehicle as the rollout will be the same for each pass. A longer or shorter rollout will change your ET by a few hundredths and is simply one more variabel you will have to extimate if you enter into a bracket race.

If the track publishes weather information write it down on each pass. If not, or if the track weather is not regularly updated, look around for someone with a portable weather station and ask them the DA. That is the primary indicator of air quality although the other variable come into play when you have enough data and become more serious.

Bring shoe polish, a role of paper towels, and some windex to clean off the numbers. Make sure to write tme large enough for everyone can see. This numbering is nothing to be "cool" about... You want the tower to be able to clearly identify you. I write them on all four windows as per NHRA/IHRA spec, same with the dial in if you decide to compete.

Once you are familiar with the car, it is easier to adjust the car than the driver, however since you are starting out I suggest having a good time, be polite, listen to the people who have been doing this a long time, and remembering/writing down what you learn.

My first season I went to the finals four times and came home a bridesmaid at my local 1/8 mile track. On the last day of the season I went to New England Dragway and won Camaro day, defeating the street class champion in the final round. There were many nights that first year I went home early, however I would often help out other racers who were still in competition and in return they would say things to me that would prove valuable to my success as time went on.

If the track is like most tracks on a street night, they will not treat the surface much (or at all in some cases). If this is your situation, simply try to avoid any and all sareas of the launch pad that appear shiny.

TedH

I suspect the altitude at Phoenix will not allow the numbers you are looking for. You may need to calculate for the difference in DA between there and sea level as a very general indicator.

EnFuegoZ28

Thanks for the great info TNT...I mean Ted.

TedH

Try doing some reading here as well:

http://www.staginglight.com/guide/index.html

EnFuegoZ28

Did you go through the water box?

Good reading Ted. When I have more time later I will read it thoroughly.

JakeRobb

If you're going to do a burnout, go through the waterbox. I pulled around it and backed in so that the front tires stayed dry.

TedH

This is good advice. You only need enough water help break the tires free. Many people tend to do a spin in the box but with street tires and fenders this is generally a poor idea. Of course a good water box tech keeps just enough water to wet the tires... On street nights however tracks often have "the new guy" running the hose and things can get pretty dicey...

slowride94z

I pull around the water and back close to it not in it. there is enough moisture to do a burnout.

I however with my street tires do a good long low rpm burn out. 15 to 20 seconds but in 2 gear low rpm like 3000to 4000

works for me. I have tried very little burnout then hot lapped and did a very long burn out and my 60' time was better.


best of 1.87 on 235 eagles gts
and I launch off Idle

I cant wait till I get to use the yank

RickabaughLS1

so what is a usual et for a slightly modded ls1?...jus got mine and waitin for the weather to break so i can go to the track

EnFuegoZ28

Here's the update for you guys:

ran a best of 14.3 @ 97 w/ a 2.24 60ft.

It was a great experience though!!

JakeRobb

What year? '01-02 cars are just a little bit faster.

What mods? "Slightly modded" means frighteningly different things to different people.

What track? Elevation and air temperature play a big role.

I managed a 13.2 @ 108.9 in my '02 Z28 M6, with a crappy 2.14 60' time on street tires. My only mods at the time were a Corsa cat-back exhaust and an airbox lid w/ stock paper filter. That was powershifting -- it only traps 107-107.5 otherwise, but it will still run a 13.2.

slowride94z

glad you had fun
are you hooked now?
have you gotten your car back yet?