This is the weird part though, the evo is shifting one more time then the OP is, and that's at least a .25 second right? I was assuming that they were both going through in 4th gear, but that's not the case here. Even if he took his time shifting the 1-2, the mere fact that he has one less change should more then balance that out.

 

Eh, dont worry about it anymore guys, that was 1 run, im going to the track tomorrow, i let you know what happens, hopefully a new best, remember that was only my 3rd run with some tires under the car

 

One run and look at all the knowledge you have for the next time at the track

 

Definately, do you by chance have the calculator for DA?

 

I have a custom made spreadsheet in my laptop which also does ET predictions.

You can have the DA formula explained here. Adapt the calculations into a spreadsheet.

http://www.hardtail.com/techtips/weather.html

You need to know temperature, humidity, barometric pressure and track elevation. The last few years I've been using corrected BP (same as your local weather forecast gives) but that can change too easily. I now use station pressure which remains constant even if you travel to different tracks at different elevations since it's the actual pressure and isn't affected by altitude.

One of the best hand held devices popular to racers is a Kestrel 4000. They sell on Ebay between $170 and $230. I'll own one some day. I currently use a small digital temperature and humidity gauge set up on my trailer and for barometric pressure I use a hand held Suunto E203

 

Thanks! Care to upload that spreadsheet?

 

Want to pay me for it? It took me 2 years of online searching to find formulas and calculations to get the results I wanted. Everything you need to know is online if you know what to look for where to look for it. My formulas are just as accurate as the hand held ET predictors except it's in a laptop and doesn't have user friendly inputs and outputs as the hand held ones do.

I also have spreadsheets for my log books, graphs of runs, and a bunch of other automotive formulas. It's not something that I wish to share.

 

Eh, dont need it that bad lol. I usually just ask the ppl i race with, but it would be nice to know if someone that i usually ask didnt race that night.

 

The DA calculations are available on the above web page but that's all I give out since that's common public domain information. It doesn't take much to transfer the information into a spreadsheet so you can at least know what the DA is. Getting someone else's information isn't accurate unless it's always from the same person. You can have 2 Perform Aire's sitting beside each other and they'll give different DA readings. Which one do you believe? That's why I have my own weather instruments and calculations. I'm always getting readings from my own instruments so all my logs are based off the same results.

Racers track more than just DA. I also keep track of vapor pressure. That's a more accurate way of knowing just how much moisture is in the air. Relative humidity isn't very accurate because warm air can hold more moisture than cold air. There's more water in the air at 50% humidity at 70F than there is at 50% RH and 50F air.

I also keep track of air density. The denser the air, the more power the engine will make. The more environment conditions you can keep track of, the easier it is to know what the car will do on any given day. If you have enough logs, you should be able to show up at the track, get the local weather conditions, write a number on the windows and run the number. My problem is that I keep changing things on the car every year so old logs don't help much.

 

Went 11.860 @ 116.55 last night on a 1.678 60', the 330' time was 4.919

 

Just about the same mph as before so the engine is making the same amount of power. The quicker ET is probably all in the first 1/8 mile. Traction makes or breaks the ET.

If you're going to play with tuning, timing etc, always adjust so it improves the mph. If you do something and ET slows but MPH got better, it was a good adjustment to make more power but you probably spun off the line to lose the ET.

 

Cant wait to hit it with the bottle

 

Get rid of that Flowmaster. My 396 LT1 picked up 20 rwhp when I went from the 4" Mufflex Flowmaster to a bullet-style muffler (Dynomax UltraFlow).

Also, what kind of camshaft do you have? You're at LEAST 60 rwhp / 20 rwtq low of what a 383 LT1 should be putting down. I'm not a fan of LE heads, but 375 rwhp is absolutely miserable for a 383 LT1. Not picking on ya. Just giving you a heads-up.

 

I hear you on the flowmaster, with the cutout it made 26 more rwhp THROUGH THE 12-BOLT and 28" mickey thompsons with 20psi. That would have been atleast 35 through the 10-bolt and stock tires. The car dynoed 385/384 without a cutout (trapped 117), using the same exhaust on the 10-bolt, it only dynoed 349 with the cutout closed using the 12-bolt and 28" tires. I guarantee the car would put down 410rwhp with the stock 10 bolt and my SS rims and the cutout open. The cam is a 230/236 cam that bret designed when i still was running the stock 350. This cam is not designed for this motor, but still makes decent power i think.

 

time to upgrade that baby cam! hey? dont u love when that happens