Who is happy with their DS loop?
I have built all of mine. Many do not even pass tech(REAL tech,MUST be WITH IN 6in of U-Joint CENTER)
The first one I built out of a third gen kit and it attatched to a Convertable "X" brace I installed.
Once I installed my Hookers and custom built my Y-Pipe this no longer fit so I moved it to Our second Z28 and built a new one. The new one is based off a Metco but moved forward so it is actually legal for NHRA. I took the bottom part and cut the mounting tabs off and bolted them in the car. I then cut the Hole sections off a Lakewood I had, I then put the top section of the Metco in and lined it up with the holes in the lakewood parts and bolted them together loosely. I then welded the lakewood parts to the metco mounting tabs. Well this gave me the top section of the loop now I just needed them bottom. I took the piece I cut off the bottom of the metco and ran it between the new 4 inch pipe and the DS. Closer to the 4 inch pipe then DS(about 3/8s inch) and welded it from above the exhuast to the loop under the TQ arm.
This did two things that made me happy. If I break a DS I am safe...IF I break a TQ arm(they mostly break in front unless bolts ripp out back) I am safe.
I have Pics of the old one but not of the new one yet
Good luck!
------------------
Ellis
Team Captain
Team North West F-Body
www.teamnwfbody.org
[This message has been edited by OneFlyn95z28 (edited August 14, 2002).]
The first one I built out of a third gen kit and it attatched to a Convertable "X" brace I installed.
Once I installed my Hookers and custom built my Y-Pipe this no longer fit so I moved it to Our second Z28 and built a new one. The new one is based off a Metco but moved forward so it is actually legal for NHRA. I took the bottom part and cut the mounting tabs off and bolted them in the car. I then cut the Hole sections off a Lakewood I had, I then put the top section of the Metco in and lined it up with the holes in the lakewood parts and bolted them together loosely. I then welded the lakewood parts to the metco mounting tabs. Well this gave me the top section of the loop now I just needed them bottom. I took the piece I cut off the bottom of the metco and ran it between the new 4 inch pipe and the DS. Closer to the 4 inch pipe then DS(about 3/8s inch) and welded it from above the exhuast to the loop under the TQ arm.
This did two things that made me happy. If I break a DS I am safe...IF I break a TQ arm(they mostly break in front unless bolts ripp out back) I am safe.
I have Pics of the old one but not of the new one yet

Good luck!
------------------
Ellis
Team Captain
Team North West F-Body
www.teamnwfbody.org
[This message has been edited by OneFlyn95z28 (edited August 14, 2002).]
The pictures alone should tell you how much I love my loop. Funny / scary thing I just put it on the week before. As a result I now have two loops (front and rear). They are mounted off from my Spohn Torque arm and are located in the right spot according to the rules (front one is all that matters).
Safety Loop
------------------
Grand Rapids, MI
2002 WS6
http://www.sigma-epsilon.org/steve
stevedertien@attbi.com
Whisper Lid, Grotyohann Headers and Y-pipe, Corsa Exhaust, BMR SFC's, McLeod Single Disk, Spohn Torque Arm, LCA and Panhard Rod and much more to come
Safety Loop
------------------
Grand Rapids, MI
2002 WS6
http://www.sigma-epsilon.org/steve
stevedertien@attbi.com
Whisper Lid, Grotyohann Headers and Y-pipe, Corsa Exhaust, BMR SFC's, McLeod Single Disk, Spohn Torque Arm, LCA and Panhard Rod and much more to come
WOW!!
that makes me real happy that i just put mine in along with an LS1 driveshaft
i put in the BMR loop (cost was about $100, cheap insurance) clearanced for low hanging y-pipes (future plans of long tubes)
it was banging on the torque arm at 1st but it was an easy fix
what kinda driveshaft was that?
and how would you go about mounting one in the rear?
------------------
97' M6, hardtop,
black EXT. gray INT.
SLP shrt thro,SPEC stage2,LS1 DS
SLP CAI,SLP Loudmouth,SS wheels
www.allaboutspeed.com/membersrides/Steve97Z28M6%20.jpg
best time 14.1@101.5mph--2.37-60'
that makes me real happy that i just put mine in along with an LS1 driveshaft
i put in the BMR loop (cost was about $100, cheap insurance) clearanced for low hanging y-pipes (future plans of long tubes)
it was banging on the torque arm at 1st but it was an easy fix
what kinda driveshaft was that?
and how would you go about mounting one in the rear?
------------------
97' M6, hardtop,
black EXT. gray INT.
SLP shrt thro,SPEC stage2,LS1 DS
SLP CAI,SLP Loudmouth,SS wheels
www.allaboutspeed.com/membersrides/Steve97Z28M6%20.jpg
best time 14.1@101.5mph--2.37-60'
I'm running the Jegs DS loop for 82-up F-bodys. It was pretty cheap (~$40 shipped), and fit very well. Even with my custom y-pipe and BMR torque-arm.
------------------
Tom
1997 30th Aniv. SS <<383 Cubes of Nitrous Huffing Power!
1990 Mustang Notchback <<Project... Sold!
2FASST.com <<< Holy s***! It's really here?!?!
Motown Muscle <<< Dedicated to today's musclecar!
"...Now go away, or I shall taunt you a second time!"
------------------
Tom
1997 30th Aniv. SS <<383 Cubes of Nitrous Huffing Power!
1990 Mustang Notchback <<Project... Sold!

2FASST.com <<< Holy s***! It's really here?!?!
Motown Muscle <<< Dedicated to today's musclecar!
"...Now go away, or I shall taunt you a second time!"
I use a third gen Lakewood loop. It's not bad but I had to modify it when I went to a larger diameter driveshaft so that I could pull the driveshaft out without disassembling the loop. The 1350 series u-joint yokes didn't clear properly.
As soon as I pick up a chunk of 5" pipe I'm making a new one and mounting it off the custom made tranny crossmember.
------------------
Stephen's racing page
or check out the race car
87 IROC SuperPro race car
461 big block
Best ET on a time slip: 11.418
Best MPH on a time slip: 117.01
Best corrected ET: 11.051
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP: 468
Best 60 foot: 1.595
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association
As soon as I pick up a chunk of 5" pipe I'm making a new one and mounting it off the custom made tranny crossmember.
------------------
Stephen's racing page
or check out the race car
87 IROC SuperPro race car
461 big block
Best ET on a time slip: 11.418
Best MPH on a time slip: 117.01
Best corrected ET: 11.051
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP: 468
Best 60 foot: 1.595
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association
[QUOTE]Originally posted by cASe SenSiTive:
[B]I'm running the Jegs DS loop for 82-up F-bodys. It was pretty cheap (~$40 shipped), and fit very well. Even with my custom y-pipe and BMR torque-arm.
Does the Jegs one bolt to the body where that thin crossmember thing is? Is that location closer than six inches from the front joint? I need to clear 4" mufflex. How much exhaust clearance do you have?
Thanks
Jamie
[B]I'm running the Jegs DS loop for 82-up F-bodys. It was pretty cheap (~$40 shipped), and fit very well. Even with my custom y-pipe and BMR torque-arm.
Does the Jegs one bolt to the body where that thin crossmember thing is? Is that location closer than six inches from the front joint? I need to clear 4" mufflex. How much exhaust clearance do you have?
Thanks
Jamie
I have a BMR and I'm very happy with it. Broke the tranny mount on the 3-4 poweshift at 80mph. Driveshaft hit the loop and stayed in the car.
------------------
'95 FORMULA Blue-Green Chameleon, M6, Suncoast WS6 ram air hood, K&N, Granetilli MAS, BMR supension, Hypertech program & 160 stat, LT4 knock module, Hurst shifter, Star Stage II clutch, Borla Cat Back, Goodrich Drag Radials, Moser 12-bolt 4.11 rear, 13.18@102 1.90 60' on the breaks, last run of the 2001 season
------------------
'95 FORMULA Blue-Green Chameleon, M6, Suncoast WS6 ram air hood, K&N, Granetilli MAS, BMR supension, Hypertech program & 160 stat, LT4 knock module, Hurst shifter, Star Stage II clutch, Borla Cat Back, Goodrich Drag Radials, Moser 12-bolt 4.11 rear, 13.18@102 1.90 60' on the breaks, last run of the 2001 season
[quote]<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by JamiePZ:
[b]
No, it bolts in well ahead of the thin cros-member thing. That's part of the reason I went with it. The BMR TA I have uses the cross-member area as it's front mounting point.
The DS loop ends up being ~3 or 4 inches back of the U-joint. Like I said, no clearance issues on my exhaust, but I'm only running a 3" Y and cat-back, so YMMV.
Sorry, but I don't have any pics available of it right now.
------------------
Tom
1997 30th Aniv. SS <<383 Cubes of Nitrous Huffing Power!
1990 Mustang Notchback <<Project... Sold!
2FASST.com <<< Holy s***! It's really here?!?!
Motown Muscle <<< Dedicated to today's musclecar!
"...Now go away, or I shall taunt you a second time!"
[b]
Originally posted by cASe SenSiTive:
I'm running the Jegs DS loop for 82-up F-bodys. It was pretty cheap (~$40 shipped), and fit very well. Even with my custom y-pipe and BMR torque-arm.
Does the Jegs one bolt to the body where that thin crossmember thing is? Is that location closer than six inches from the front joint? I need to clear 4" mufflex. How much exhaust clearance do you have?
Thanks
Jamie</font>
I'm running the Jegs DS loop for 82-up F-bodys. It was pretty cheap (~$40 shipped), and fit very well. Even with my custom y-pipe and BMR torque-arm.
Does the Jegs one bolt to the body where that thin crossmember thing is? Is that location closer than six inches from the front joint? I need to clear 4" mufflex. How much exhaust clearance do you have?
Thanks
Jamie</font>
The DS loop ends up being ~3 or 4 inches back of the U-joint. Like I said, no clearance issues on my exhaust, but I'm only running a 3" Y and cat-back, so YMMV.
Sorry, but I don't have any pics available of it right now.
------------------
Tom
1997 30th Aniv. SS <<383 Cubes of Nitrous Huffing Power!
1990 Mustang Notchback <<Project... Sold!

2FASST.com <<< Holy s***! It's really here?!?!
Motown Muscle <<< Dedicated to today's musclecar!
"...Now go away, or I shall taunt you a second time!"
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