I noticed in the Jegs and Summit catalogs that ET streets are designated as tube type, but have read on these forums that many people do not use the tubes. What are the pros and cons of those choices? I am making about 350hp at the wheels and am currently running BFG drag radials that spin about half way thru first. (A4, 3.23 gear). I feel the M/T ETs will improve I my 60fts ( 1.85-9). I do not plan on putting screws in the rims as I don't think my hp would require it, so loss of air isn't a factor. I don't think I will need to run air pressures in the teens, also relevent to my hp. Are there good benefits to using the tubes, other than loss of air or squirreliness at high speeds?

 

Running without tubes, you may have to fill the tires up every few weeks. When I used MT tires, my car sat in the rain and I saw tiny bubbles coming right through the sidewall.

Tubes are heavy. If you spin a tire on the rim you'll rip the stem off the tube.

Run them without tubes. If you feel you need to constantly add air every race then consider having tubes put into them. Tubes or no tubes, mark the tires with some shoe polish or tire chalk at the valve stem. If you notice the tire turning on the rim, it's time for rim screws.

I currently run Hoosier slicks without tubes and have them screwed to the rim because they started to spin.

 

Tubes generally help hold air.

Tubes generally add some substance to the sidewall which will help with tire life.

The tires are designed for tubes.

The tires are race tires and you will be going fast on them.

The manufacturer recommends tubes.

My ET streets spun on the rim back when I dynoed 320/320. F-bodies are heavy.

I use rim screws.

Since using rim screws and tubes I have not had a flat or or a problem with my ET Streets. I cannot say that before I didd it the way the manufacturer recommends.

The site for Mickey Thompson is here: http://www.mickeythompsontires.com

When going over 100mph I like to be safe.

 

How many screws should I use? Do you put them on both sides of the rims? The ETs will be on my stock '95 rims. How far should the screw stick into the bead?
I had a '70 Chevelle with moon discs that were screwed to the steel wheels. I drilled the holes a little smaller than the sheet metal screws that I used. Would this be a correct way to do the ETs?
Thanks for your input.

 

Two points not made here...

1 M/T claims faster car reaction WITH tubes.
2 Tubes disappate the heat in the tire faster after a run.

My Hoosier tires (Slicks) are much better at holding air then any M/T tire I've EVER owned. And... Naughty me, I run no tubes. I should try it this year though. I have a pair in the garage.

I have never ran below 15 pounds of air, plenty to keep the tire from spinning on the rim that isn't even noticeable.

HInk

 

I drove my ET Streets w/o tubes on the street all the time last year and never had any problem w/ leaking or wheel movement.

I will run them w/ the slicks this year, along w/ studs.

 

I know guys that just mount the tires and go, I know guys that do it by the book, I know guys who use their own judgement on things.

The bottom line is I follow the manufacturer guidelines on stuff like this simply because I value my own butt.

Mickey Thompson has guidelines posted on their site here:
http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/tech_rim_screw.html

Once they are drilled and set up changing isn't a big deal.

Rim screws are here:
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...crews&x=14&y=9

 

Again, thanks much for the info.