I need some traction!! Finally got to the track yesterday and was excited but also dissapointed being i was really hoping for a wheels up pass. Heres the deal. I'm running BFG drags and I started at 20psi and a 2.0 60ft and ended the day with 10psi and a 1.7 60ft. I can't keep it from spinning i first gear.They are sticky as hell. Have i just reached the limitations of these tires power wise?

So I'm looking at real slicks. But my question is could i get away with keeping my 16's and run the M/T 26x10.50x16 or should i go with the same size but in 15" wheels. If that tire in 16" will hook I would rather do that right now due to money.
Thanks

 

First gear ratio?
Diff ratio?
How old are the tires?

You could be simply overpowering the tires if you have too much torque multiplication from a power adder'd engine.

On the other hand I have no problems getting 1.40 60' times through a 1.76 first gear to a 4.56 gear diff on 29.5 x 10.5 tires. The engine produces about 770 pounds of torque on launch. 770 x 1.76 x 4.56 = 6280 pounds of torque to the wheels. That's trying to move just under 3100 pounds of weight off the line.

Lets say you have a conservative 500 pounds of torque (probably more) x 3.06 first gear x 3.73 diff gears (guessing). That's only 5707 pounds of torque to the wheels and probably trying to move at least 3500 pounds off the line.

Then again, even a new set of tires won't have much traction if the track isn't prepped properly. No or little VHT and the track is slippery. Too hot or too cold a surface and the track is slippery. A surface covered in dust and dirt and the track is slippery.

Going from a 2.0 to a 1.7 60' in the course of a day is impressive enough. Did the MPH change at all? How much did the ET improve?

 

A DR is NOT a wrinkle wall slick. Right around 20 is the proper working pressure for a drag radial. Madman just posted up pics on LS1tech of a boosted LT1 pulling a 1.2 60' on MT drag radials with 20 PSI of air in them.
You're trying to bandaid a poorly working suspension with more tire.

What is your complete suspension set up?

 

Your right on the whole gear raio thing. Plus it's a full weight car + 200 for me. This was all in the 1/8th mile and my mph stayed at 98mph the whole time.
The 2.0 was because I was hoping it was gonna hook up so I finally had to let out of it.

 

That sounds like serious suspension. Only thing i have done is lca reloc. brackets. I know I could def. benefit from the whole works but i've seen plenty of people hook up and bring the wheels up on a totally stock suspension. I was also thinking of removing the front sway bar and try transferring a little more weight to the back. I don't have $1k to redo my suspesion after i just bought this moser 12 bolt.

 

this thread caught my eye because i run into the same problem. i have a stock suspension, what would be an ideal suspension for the OP and I?

 

I don't think you've reached the limits of a drag radial (MT), but you might have to spend some money on your suspension when you have the funds. And yeah, lose the front sway bar at least. Also, I have also heard (take it for what's worth) that no lower than 17 or 18 lbs in the radials. You could be disrupting the contact patch. PS, this comes from a total rookie still trying to maximize his own set-up.

 

We've been running the BF Goodrich d/r T/A's since they first came out and we've gotten our best results at ~12-14psi. I can't speak fot the M/T's.

 

BFGs can work that low but only in some cases. Not usually on a heavy car.

 

I think that LCA relocators and adjustable shocks are the most important on an automatic trans car.
I had home boxed LCAs with poly bushings, home made LCA relocators, an M6 or V6 torque arm, no front sway bar, air bag in the right rear spring, and QA1s all around to pull consistant low 1.6 to high 1.5 60's.
Went full susp. last year with all Spohn parts and went 4.10s in a 12 bolt and pull very low 1.5s and even a high 1.4 sometimes.