Projectz28

Anyone ever use one of these kits? I want to put in a 10 pt cage in my car and a friend of mine told me Jegs made kits the F-body. I had no idea . I was wondering how well it fit, and if I buy one will I have much fab work to do?

GM 1993-02 Camaro/Firebird
550-944501K 4-Point Roll Bar Kit $126.99
550-944503K 8-Point Roll Bar Kit $152.99
550-944504K 10-Point Roll Bar Kit $219.99
550-944505K 12-Point Roll Bar Kit $272.99

billsbird

....I don't know about these particular kits but I noticed in the fine print on a roll bar ad once that the tubing was NOT notched.... Bill...

ABA383

I'm getting ready to do a 6 point in my 95 formula...been researching and the Wolferacecraft seems to be the best kit for fit, etc, and for $100 they jig notch everything...However yor just can't beat going to a chassis builder for a custom cage...From my experience with other cars, custom bent stuff fits perfectly...Every car is different so you kinda gotta be leary of the kits...the price you save on the kit may not be worth the extra labor if it aint just quite right....nothing looks more crappy than a cage done wrong....Locally in SW PA theres ARC Race cars...$1200 for a 6 point chromoly through the floor and into the subframes...their stuff are works of art...Might be a little pricey, but man does their stuff look good...
--Alan

ABA383

Actually, the $1200 was for an 8 point...oops...

kazman

Brian, I got my roll bar from vanishing point. A ton of work required to put it in. You get the main loop and lot of straight peices of pipe to cut, bend, and weld. If your doing it yourself I would look to wolf kit. I believe the wolf kit is all pre-bent. You better hurry up and get it installed. Opening day is 3/13/04.

Projectz28

In the fine print from Jegs it says that the kit is notched. But I think I am going to go anouther route now.

I never knew SW was in Spring city PA. Heck thats only a 30 -40 min trip from here. I'll save on shipping and get it from them and go pick it up.

I am doing this myself so I dont mind spending a little more time in fabrication work to put it in... its only my time not money.

Now my second decision has come up. Should I get an 8pt bar or go all out and get a 10pt cage?

The car doesnt "need" a 10 pt, but if I'm doing this now I need to decide. Will there be a substantial difference in strength from an 8 to 10pt? And is it worth the hassle of ripping out the dash for a car that will probably never "need" it. I dont think the car will ever go faster than 10.0. I do plan to have it in the 10's someday but not now.

So I was thinking that an 8pt and a set of subframe connectors would stiffen up the car just as well as a 10 pt. What do you guys think?

jonaddis84

Honestly, IMO, unless you ARE in the 8s or 9s, you wont even notice the difference between a 6point and a 30 point. You will spend so much time/money putting a full cage in, and you will have to cut the hell out of the dash to get it in there, and it will be quite difficult to get it to look even decent. So unless you are ttoped and in the 9s, go with 6 or 8. just MO though

kazman

Brian, so your comming up to my neck of the woods.

I just went with the 8 point bar. Its good for the 10's (way faster than I run). If I go off the deep end I can always add in the 10 point cage later. But at that point I'll bag the firebird and move up to a rail.

Projectz28

Thanks for the quick replies guys. Your making this much easier for me.

Thats partly why I was leaning to just an 8pt. Install would be alot easier. Basically i worked out a deal with a guy at work. He can weld his a$$ off. He is going to help me put it in actually just at his house cause thats where the welder is. If I go 10 pt then I would have to leave the dash in to get the car off the trailer. rip it out there and put it back in later. I wasnt looking forward to that honestly. So if I'm not going to see a world of difference, and I dont "need" it then I'll just stick to an 8pt.

Jim, yeah I may be in your neighbor hood if I get it from them. I have to call them first. I want to know some details about their F-body kit before I just order one. I want to know where their rear bars come down in the back. Are the on the rear deck or to the wheel wells? I want them down to the deck.

If I do I'll call you on the cell and come hang out for a bit. I still have not seen you car. Your number stll the same?

ABA383

I meant South West Pennsylvania, ARC is in Hanover, PA, Sorry for any confusion, not SW Race Cars....

Projectz28

nope, no confusin. SW is in Spring City PA.... I guess there are just too many options for PA

ABA383

Guess so...by the way the 8 point that ARC does is pretty cool...its a basic 6 point with 2 bars coming off the main hoop through the floor and to your SFCs...They also said that the best set up for safety and chassis rgidity and response was to bring the rear bars down to the rear shock towers....you hafta lose the back seat, but it aint much use with a roll bar anyway...I've seen alot of companies that go over the rear seat...Apparently this is not the best way to go...Good luck.
--Alan

flyinZ

I have a few friends that were running these type of bars'...I will be running one of they're 8-points, in about 2 months..

Stephen 87 IROC

I went with the Jegs 12 point cage although I didn't install the front supports through the firewall. There's a big difference in design between the 10 and 12 point cage more than just the front struts and that's what I wanted. The 12 point kit also includes metal for the X door bars and provides a dash bar.

It's pretty hard to find a 100% prenotched, just weld in kit. All the bars need to be cut to length depending on exactly where you're going to position them. Since you need to cut the bars, one end isn't notched. I used a 4" grinder to notch all my bars.

After I put my kit in I would have repositioned the A-piller bars a bit differently. I wouldn't recommend a full cage for a street car since the A-piller bars will cause a big headache when driving. Also the A-piller bars have no easy way to mount behind the dash pad. I cut and modified my dash pad to fit between the bars. Apparently a Firebird has better heater/speaker holes in the dash pad that the bars can go through.

The nicest thing about my Jegs cage is that I can still remove the T-tops although I have absolutely no interior.

Projectz28

I figured that the kit wont have everything exactly where I need it. I realize there will still be some grinding, cutting and fab work to make everything fit to my car. But I do want the major pieces to be pre notched... even if they do require some slight fabrication to the notched ends to make them fit just right. I also realize they will have to be cut to lenght, not every car is the same. I am basically just looking for a kit that has pre bent bars and the majority of the notching done. I'm not looking to fab everything. If that were the case I would just go but some tubing and do it all myself. I'm going to just call SW on monday to find out the details. And actually now that I did some research I think SW might even be the supplier for the "Jegster" roll cages.


A 12 point is definately out of the question for me. I dont need the X braces or front bars. So its just a matter of 10 or 8. The car is not a street car anymore. I dropped the tags off of it recently so I dont really care about anything else.

As of now I think I agree with jonaddis84. I'm not shooting to run 9's... so an 8pt will do and it will stiffen up the car just as well as a 10pt. If at a later date I see the need for the halo and pillar bars, I'll rip out the dash then.