Here we go again and perhaps It's just a sanity check. I've done the "fastest stock" searches but would like to confirm. Here's what I have and what I did.

$140 - two homemade nitrous kits, one with propane injection
$400 - 3.73 rear end and TA girdle
$350 - used TH350
$250 - LT1 edit and cable
$150 - Used 28x9" slicks
$80 - Summit steel rims
$20 - Thermostat
$80 - Two Summit seats w/swap meet covers
$75 - Used 11" converter (no paint don't know the brand)
$250 - Used skinnies (not mine actually borrowed)
$90 - Lengthened driveshaft
$30 - Carpet (autozone)
$60 - Hooker Aero Chamber muffler.

$2,000 total (approx).

I went 11.10 first pass and 11.003 @ 120.59 with a 1.50 sixty footer second pass.

Who else has run similar times with stock type equipment?

Additionally, does anyone know the limit to the stock manifolds and y pipe?

I'm thinking this combo could go 10.50s less the stock rear end.

 

It aint stock with the nitrous. FYI

 

no wonder you have FORD as your avatar

 

Would you happen to have a parts breakdown of your homemade nitrous set-up?

 

Exactly what do you mean by this statement? His title states quickest/fastest/cheapest stock LT1.

Then later in the paragraph he adds who has gone this fast with stock equipment? WTF stalls gears and nitrous arent stock. If he was talking about internally he should say so.

His title means one thing, fastest internally stock lt1, yet his paragraph suggests another.

Oh and i have the avatar because its my name

 

I think he was getting at stock equiptment..mainly untouched motor and suspension. Also


well maybe your correct then.

Also i take back the comment on your avatar, I didn't realise it was your name.

 

There are three brass body solenoids all basically the same. Two are modified with teflon plungers for use with nitrous. They cost $33 each.

I use a low pressure system, tank and solenoids in the back of the car, only low pressure lines from there to the air intake (open pipe). The solenoids are joined with two braided stainless steel lines, $10 each.

The bottle is a scuba tank machined for a cga 540 valve $16.

The engine is stock from the air filter to the crossover pipe. I should have specified "engine". I did list exactly what's in the car. Sorry for the confusion.

 

Very innovative, What bottle pressure on the nitrous do you run, can you estimate the after solonoid pressure that you get? Do you notice a pause onthe nitrous before it hits with this type of system?

 

No pause, just a more gentle application of power. It's been a long haul with the low pressure dry spray. I started off with 40 hp on the stock motor with no tuning. That same night I was up to 60 hp. I soon got LT1 edit and upped the PE chart.

At first, and the big claim to fame with the low pressure spray, the hit is very soft then comes in full strength. This is great for street cars with street tires. Now however at the 150+ level, well just forget it. I'm sure the hit is soft but the tires still lose every time. Often when I look at O2 data I'll see an extremely rich condition for maybe .25 to .5 second. Then the O2s will settle where I set them. Especially when I don't prime. Both the 11.10 and the 11.00 passes showed this pattern in the data.

I usually don't worry about bottle pressure, at the track it was about 850-900. On the street I can run the bottle all but empty with little noticable loss of performance. The tires usually squeal less, then I know. I'd say the lack of fuel atomization makes the system less bottle pressure sensitive. Surely there is a power loss.

I would absolutely guess maybe 100 psi. It's enough to seriousy whip a fairly rigid 1/4" hose held firmly 6 inches from the end.

Quite frankly, If I were to install any nitrous kit on any street driver, I'd swap the hoses, putting the solenoid as far away from the plate as I could (soften the initial shock). I may even go so far as to lengthen the line with an energy absorbing material.

 

Thanks for the info, I have been wondering why most systems put the solonoid within a few feet of the jet, but they are wanting instant response right? the farther away allows gradual application?

 

Sure, and instant hit is great at the track with wrinkle walls.

Absolutely, distance and heat are your friends when it comes to slowing things down just a bit. Realize we're talking about fractions of a second. The power's still there. As evidence, Iv'e got an excellent wheels up photo of the 11.003 run. And, rumor had it on the 11.52 run with just a 150 shot the wheels were up. If someone would offer I could post it. I should have a movie from the digital video soon also.

 

email me pics or videos at ken.slater@gmail.com

ill host em for u


and i must say i am impressed with ur times- i give you credit - for very littly money u can go fast- just need to get creative

 

Thanks.

I don't remember who, but there was a guy on here who's sig said all the best speed parts can be found at home depot (something like that).

I takes alot of time to fab everything, but saves a ton of cash. My wife and kids don't seem to tire from the extra money.

I'll likely have the vid on Monday.

 

tires up

 

That's wicked cool, thanks Ken.

That guy's head is my best friend, he's taking the digital video. He's got a soon to be 10 second 85 vette (beat me to the 10s).