i have been to the track 2 times in the past. first time i was bone stock got a 13.8 @104 with a 2.5 60'.
second time i went i had a few mods and got a 13.6 @ 107 with a 2.4 60'
i know i need to get my 60' down to a respectable time like 2.0 or 2.1 but how?
will droping the psi in th rear help me hook up a little better?
if so what pis should i go with.
should i do a burn out? i have heard that a burn out on street tires is pointless.
also how much are LS1's effected by the air temp?
(best run was in 95+* heat this time it should be about 75*)
any help would be awsome.

im hoping for a 12.9 @ 109 or so, with a 2.0 60'. and with my new mods and the cooler weather i think i can do it.
what do you guys think?
thanx
Eric

 

Radial street tires don't work well with low air pressure. The stiff sidewalls only cause the center of the tire to curl up when the pressure is low. A street tire shouldn't go below 28 psi. Most work best in the 32-35 psi range.

Stay out of the water box. Drive around it to the inside if you can. Stay out of the water and stay out of the dirt and rubber that they sweep out of it. A street tire isn't designed to heat up. That's why it has a long life mileage. Trying to heat up a street tire just makes it slippery. All you need to do is a short dry hop burnout to clean off the tire. You don't want any water or dirt in the tread.

 

i cosider myself a pro at street racing(simi retired street racer)

i found the best way to get a good lounch is with about 18-20, youll need to test each tire and car have differant characteristics. my burnout is usually 1st gear about 2500rpm for around 5sec. then give about 3/4 throttle hit second(a4) let off after a couple sec.

2 weeks ago i had a 2.2 60' on slick toyo's

with more air and less heat i would spin all the way past the 1/8
but thats just me

 

Not neccesarily true ... you have to pick your devil with street tires. Yes, dropping the pressure will cause a loss of contact patch.

But your biggest threat is the spring action from the tires themselves. The tires are part of your suspension and will act like soft spring causing the rear to unload and spin with the higher pressure ... particularly on a street nite unprepped track and more so on a 16" wheel than with a 17" wheel

So the fix is to drop the pressure below what would be optimum for a good contact patch to reduce the bounce.

As far as the burn out. Agreed a street tire gains nothing from a big burn out ... on a clean track. But after the big boys have made few runs and the staging area is littered with rubber residue, a hot burn out will pick up some of that rubber and can help you stick ...

 

I recommend finding a used set of Firestone Firehawk SZ50EPs like I did. 30$ and I got a few months of driving and a 2.092 60' with my 94 Z.

 

BINGO!! Grabbing up some of that sticky rubbery goo the big tired cars leave behind in the burnout area is the reason I'm even able to get sub 2.0 60 foots on street tires! It's like a free mod . I usually pull in to the burnout area and back up to just in front of the water. I then spin the tires while letting the car move all the way up to about where I need to line up for the tree. Then I'll back up and then do a "trial" launch it to see if I'm biting or not. If not, I'll repeat by spinning the tires again thru the burnout area once more to see if I can't get it to stick better before going to the tree to make my run. Anyways, definitely stay away from the water if you're running a street tire with tread on it (it'll throw water around and mess up the track surface) and good luck to you.