Ok guys.. Our race season is only 5-6 month away..
I need some advice from you guys that would help me get into the 11's.. or even a 12.0.

Now, from what I understand, this is possible for me. My MPH is 111.XX. The car has gone 113MPH on a colder day, but not me driving... My 12.88 was done on street tires with a 2.02 60'... I have seen guys on here hit hight 11's with MPH under 110...

I want to hit the 11's, or low 12's with DR's.. No Slicks... Is this possible? Can I do this WITHOUT breaking my rear end? I've also worked out some bugs with my car.. also changing the headers... when i ran my 12.88 the car had a bad coil wire and was missing down the track... i was gonna get a 100 shot to get me into the 11's.. but I rather not.. I rather stay N/A and I rather spend that money on DR's...

So? Advices? What else should I be doing to my car? Race weight is 3600lbs... its lowered an inch... and my mods are listed in the sig...


Thanks guys...

 

Looks like the engine is done. Now time for suspension mods to get that power down.

11's is possible with Drag radials,but you will need the suspension to plant it,and you will run the risk of blowing the stock rear (fact of life).

I would get some LCA's,reloc. brackets,qa1 front shocks,c/e rear shock,v6 rear springs,frame connectors.for a start. good luck

 

thanks man
but if i was to do all that suspension mods.. how will this effect my everyday driving and handeling? are those Drag racing mods only?

 

The QA1's are adjustable to make them work really well for the drag strip and for everyday driving. I have them on all for corners of my car, I am still trying out different settings on the shocks to find a combination I like. Right now on 7 front and rear the back is too bouncy.

 

what kinda price range are we talkin about?

 

IMO you have the engine mods to do it. Problem with the stick is hooking up. My guess is that you have to cut 1.70 or better 60' to do it. Very hard with the stock 10 bolt rear because you stand an excellent risk of breaking it. I would get a set of ET streets (not drag radials), LCA reloaction brackets, and a pair of Competetion Engineering rear shocks set to 70/30. You will hook but the rear will go.

 

Yup, like boom!!!!!
The A4 with the converter you can do it, but with the M6 you will eventually need to replace it.
The only to get there is to throw more HP at it to keep blowing you rear up at the starting line. The 60' is everything, if you don't 60' worth a darn you won't ET worth a darn.

 

what kinda rear end do YOU have?

I want numbers like yours... well.. i know its harder with the M6... but i'll settle for a 12.00

i guess its possible to break the rear with DR's too?

 

First I'd add a rearend girdle with the bearing cap studs. That will help your rearend live a little longer. Tire choice depends on whether you drive the car a lot and/or want to change tires/wheels at the track. If you don't mind wheels looking different while at the track you might consider getting some 15" wheels and using BFG DR's in a 275/50x15 size. these tire have been used on 8 second Mustangs in there special race classes so you can get them to hook and still drive them to the track. Might even get maybe 6-7K miles out of them if you're real lucky. With a girdle and some sticky tires your 60' should be in the 1.70's maybe down to 1.60's and with some good aggressive driving ET's in the low 12's maybe tickle the 11's could be had

Later ... Larry S..

 

With a good clutch and nitto drags you can break the rear pretty easy. It is the shock of the load from the M6. After I broke my 3 set of gears, I decided to lower my launch rpm and increase my air pressure a bit. To compensate for the slower launches, I added a hit of nitrous in every gear but first gear. Also when the last set of Motive 4.11's went in i had the mechanic install a solid pinion spacer. You can get them from Ratech for about 18 bucks.

 

Just get really to see my tail lights

 

Still the same stock 10 Bolt, with a rear-end girdle.
I also swapped it out and put 3.42's with a Zexel-Torsion unit in it.
So far it's holding up. knock knock on wood.....

 

I got mine in a GP last year for around $615.