Modifying stock torque arm???
Modifying stock torque arm???
I read somewhere that guys in a stock suspension drag racing class were welding 2 factory torque arms together and "modifying" the contact angle to increase traction w/out getting caught. I'm on a skinny budget and have an extra torque arm. How much of a difference does this make? Also, is it worth is to box the factory lca's or should I just use relocation brackets and poly-bushings and call it a day? I've cut a 1.85 on street tires several times, but since I put in the heads, cam, and 3.73 rear, my 60's are in the 2.1-2.3 range. I'd like to get back down to a 1.80 w/ street tires and hopefully snag a 1.60 on DRs. ANY suggestions on picking up traction on a budget will help. I know to move the battery to the back, not worry about how much gas is in the tank and leave the jack/spare in if I'm using street tires. what else can I do (considering I can weld) on a $100 budget?
When I started running Stock Eliminator I ran the stock torque arm it lasted about a year before it ripped the bolt holes out at the rear end. The only addition to it was a steel plate welded in to box the front foot or so. It probably would have lived longer if I had welded plates over the bolt holes also (All of the aftermarket torque arms are stronger where they attatch to the rear).
Good Luck,
Daren
Good Luck,
Daren
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post



