...with traction? I've already cut a 1.63 on stock suspension and drag radials on a 150 shot. I've got a race with a heavily modded GSX in march and I can NOT lose. Looking for every little bit of extra help.

How much worse does the car handle?

 

It helps with weight transfer which in turn should help with traction . I run about .10 better on average without it. It will handle fine in a straight line, like a boat in a sharp turn. I only remove mine when I'm going to the track, I wouldnt run on the street without it but some here do.

 

if its a straight race - do it -



i took mine off a month after going to the track and getting time in sig- it has helped dramatically with my launching of the 18's - unfortunatley track was closed and i havent gotten new numbers- havent put it back on since

 

Very worthwhile for drag racing purposes and also figuring out the best tire pressure and burnout ritual.

The weight loss is icing on the cake.

The car will still be driveable but it corners like an 80's Dodge Caravan. I've gone months of driving without it when I'm rolling on the Skinnies and ET Streets. It's 2 reasons to SLOW DOWN while turning.

 

With the front sway bar removed and regular suspension and tires it corners fine for everyday driving. As has been said before, with skinnies and in my case drag shocks and springs, it handles loke a 1990 Lincoln with low tire pressure so I'm the guy going 20 on an off ramp...

In terms of the tack, it simply helps the car send weight from the front to the back on launch. How well it works depends onyour shocks, springs, tires, and driving ability.

 

i took mine off years ago and never looked back. I never noticed it gone on the street, but that prob has more to do with the fact that a steer with my right foot

 

Took mine off about 6 mo. ago, drive it every day with no problems. At the track it made a world of difference, lose it.

 

Is it simply the loss of weight that helps the transfer, or does in speed up the response of the front suspension? I can't see it speeding up the response unless there's stiction in the antiroll bar bushings and end links. If so, the bar needs some new polyurethane bushings (greased with silicone), as well as some better end links.

If you have a third-gen, look for an aluminum bumper support, if you can find one: It will save you nearly eleven pounds and not sacrifice your ride and handling. Swap out your battery for a Hawker or Genesis gel cell and you'll lose another thirty pounds. Together these should more than make up for the mass of the swaybar. ...or am I missing something?

http://www.ws6transam.org/bumper.htm

 

That would be fine in theory but in real life the front of the car doesn't come straight up. The left front corner starts to come up first and twists the antisway which then acts like a limiting strap holding the front from rising.
Many corner carvers just remove one end link at the track to get better weight transfer. But then you're still carring the weight.

 

Same here, Ive ran with out mine for months with no problem. But im not tempted to carve any corners because of my 4" skinnies and ET streets on the back!

 

Removed mine last week, car leaves harder and actually wrinkled the DR`s, down side is that the car lifts only the driver`s side now, with the bar in place it used to lift the front evenly but not as high or as hard as now. I have no rear sway bar now so that`s my next step- re-install the rear barand hope it helps straighten out the launch

 

Hmm, interesting idea! I'll have to ponder it on paper some more as I still have questions on how this works. It seems that the torque is transmitted through the centerline of the car and exhbited on the tires through the frame rail mounted swaybar bushings. If you remove the bar itself you decouple the front suspension from the frame rail and subsequent twist. You should see one tire rise faster while the other tire compresses into the wheel well. Oh, my head's hurtin' so I better go read about it some more.

 

greezemonkey, a procedure I've use in the past on an otherwise stock back-half car is to install an air shock on the right rear only. A front-motor/rear-drive car gets light on the left front and right rear upon acceleration. By using the air shock, you should be able to square the front a little and equalize bite on the rear tires. This is particularly important if you're using an open diff. Install an air gauge in the system and experiment with different pressures until you get the best 60'.

Loadre, skinny fronts aired to max recommended pressure, zero to 1/32" toe-in with the chassis jacked up maybe 1 inch over ride height in front to simulate "at speed" attitude, wheel bearings adjusted to just barely snug, maybe increase positive caster slightly for straight tracking. If I were looking for an extra thousandth, I might even try running the wheel bearings with engine oil instead of grease just for this one race. I've never done it, but it makes sense to me.