I took the Z-28 out to the track for the first time today. It's an 1/8 mile track and it was at least in the upper 80's today. Elevation is pretty close to sea level. My mods are linked in my sig.

These were my best two runs tonight -

Run #6

RT - .385
60' - 2.172 (best)
ET - 9.084 (best)
MPH - not recorded

Run #8

RT - .200 (best)
60' - 2.847 (terrible, I know)
ET - 9.724 (terrible again)
MPH - 81.163 (best)

I can't remember how I launched for those particular runs. For some runs I just eased out of the line, for others I dropped from about 2000 RPM. I was spinning even with that low of a launch RPM. I'm shifting at around 55-5800 RPM. I'm trying not to beat the car up *too* badly. Any pointers for a n00b like me? Also, what times should my car be capable of? (I'd like a goal to shoot for! ) Thanks, guys!

 

*check in here under 60'times


you answered your own question
get traction ,2.172 ain't all that bad with street tires
9.08 would have made me happy the first time to the track
beat the hello out of it to go fast

 

Shoot for at least the 8.755 my car ran with intake/exhaust. Granted it was February and i was doing 1.90 60fts, that's your goal. I'll have some videos in here soon for you.

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/9...z28_175278.htm

 

I was pretty happy with the 9.08. I ran a couple of other 9.1x's later in the evening that I was fairly pleased with as well. I guess I'm looking for some pointers in getting out of the hole faster since I guess that's where most of my time is getting eaten up. I only missed one shift in a dozen passes, so I'm not terribly worried about that.

That being said, my tires are getting pretty close to being worn out, and they're not exactly high-dollar grippy tires. They're the Hankook K104 tires that came with the wheels when I bought them. I'll be looking forward to cooler weather as well.

Chris, I'm bringing out both my Nikon for pics and Canon for vids next time we go.


Edit: You posted my worst run of the night, the only one I missed a shift on...

That run was:

RT - .582
60' - 2.237
ET - 9.507
MPH - 65.426 (I just coasted after missing 3rd. )

 

so where did yall run at?

 

Dorchester Dragway. It's a little 1/8 mile track about 20 minutes up the road from us.

 

I wished I were 20 minutes from a dragstrip, piedmont is 35 miles through the woods about 50 minutes and 40 turns.
rock is 60 miles and about 6 turns last time I did it in an hour towing

remove the front swaybar
lower the rear air pressure to @22psi
raise the fronts to max+
remove the spare and jack
run with 1/2 tank or less
remove those 2000 cds and pictures of mdacton youve been collecting" all the bs "
I personally am not going to take the seats out
try different burn outs to see which hooks better, mine likes a good long slow second gear burn out not high speed
try different launch rpms
but with a straight gear you have to ****** the stick out of the floor, hammer it hard

good luck

 

Well your sportlines are not helping with the weight transfer, ask how I know. But you MPH is low and that is the indication of the power your car is making. You should be netting around a 83 or so in the 1/8.

The best mod for your car is seat time. I would run 8-10 times at each test and tune until I figured my car out. You will do the same. You do not even have to remove the sway bar. Just remove one of the endlinks and it will allow the wheels to lift.(I still have to try this too)

I would be looking to hit the 8.6-8.7 range. A certain Mustang I know with around the same mods is getting low 8.6s. There is your motivation, lol.

Chris

 

Well there are so many variables to drag racing. You got long tubes,58mm throttle body and street tires. What kind of clutch? Original? From your 60ft, you are spinning off the line, which should give you a slingshot affect on your mph. Until you get some sticky tires, and good clutch, because sticky tires will overwhelm the stock clutch, your just out spinning your tires. You have to get the car running consistent, then start with where you stage the car, considering your R Times are consistent, and learn where to stage to lower your R T. As far as speed goes just get the car consistant, and you can at least bracket race it.
I started at the back of my car with tires, centerforce clutch, and a Ford 9 inch, detroit locker, to get the car to run consistant. Put many a LS1 on the trailer. They were fast, but they weren't quick.

 

I would imagine it's a stock clutch, though I'm not sure if the previous owner had ever replaced it or not. I doubt it's original with ~130,000 miles on the car considering it isn't slipping. I am spinning off the line and occasionally in second gear as well, which I know affects both ET's and MPH. I guess I'll just keep going out there and practicing. I need new tires anyway, so I'll see how much difference that makes whenever I get them. Thanks for the help so far though!

 

You really need new tires. They are whats hold you back along with your driving skills. Seat time is going to be your best friend, you lack experience and are suffing because of it.

Drop the front sway bar, put 40psi in the front tire, and drop the rears to 25psi. Those 3 things should be good for a tenth. The first time you hit it without the front bar your going to be like hily ****. The front of the car comes up a lot.

I think you may be in need of a tune up or something is wrong because your trap should be higher. Especially if you have LT's. You should be breaking into the 8.90's or at least have a trap speed that shows your car is capable of it.

Do you have a pcm tune? Have you ever been on a dyno?

 

Just looked at your mods. Sell the 58mm tb its way too big for a stock motor. You should be able to get around 250, 300. That would be enough for some 255/50/16 bfg or MT drag radials. Pick up a set of salad shooters on the FS section for 50, 75 bucks and then you have a extra set of track tires.
Or you could buy some summit racing steel 15's for 75 and mount up some 275-60-15's. The 15's will really hook.

Next, i woud think about pcmforless for a tune rather that what you already have.

 

Would there really be a problem with just leaving the 58mm TB on the car? I don't see the point in selling it, especially if I decide to build for real power at some point down the line.

 

I have a fully built 355 and still don't need a 58mm TB. I prefer to have higher velocity, but that's a whole different thread/debate.

I also think you'd be better off with stock springs and some drag radials.

Since this thread is about driving faster, not modding, are you power shifting? Don't take your foot completely off the gas when you shift. Keep the RPM up, but don't blow the motor either. That way it pulls you into the next gear instead of slowing down some.

 

too many people have more throttle body than they need. I am pretty sure its hurting you as of now.