I have two "friends" that drive mustang GT's one is a 2002 that ran a 14.6 best and the 1996 with an all time best of 13.9 He has worked on that for a while to get there. they are both 5 speeds but im running a A4. here is a list of what i have or getting before race.
1994 Z28 107,000miles daily driven by a older couple. I put in 160' thermo ,slp cold air ,cut off the cat ,3" cutout on stock exhaust right after y pipe, and TB bypass.

Not all this is on yet but will be on soon. I have no emmision in Oklahoma so what else can i pull off. I dont know what gears i have prabably 2:73 I can't put it in first becouse of the restricter. I need help i have to run A 13.9 and i am short on cash. I have not run my car once at the track yet. I dont know what gas i should run that day. I need to know how to prepar for this track day.

Any replies are good thanks Alot Max

 

its going to be very very close race with the 13.9 car. I would use premium gas on race day, no need to use race gas. The next best mods you can do for little money would be pcm retune and drag radials, and if you have a little more than gears would help significantly. look at my time in sig with the mods listed....I ran a 13.923 before the drag radials and the tune and 13.830 after. As far as weight goes if you really wanna get serious about taking it out then here is a good plan of attack.

1. spare tire and jack -free
2. rear seats -free
3. front sway bar, endlinks and brackets -free
4. passenger seat for race day. -free
5. air and egr emissions equipment -free
6. lightweight battery (hawker, dynabatt...etc.) -50 bucks
7. remove any clutter in the car -free

After what was listed you either have to spend some money to lose weight (lighter wheels, hood, k-member, etc...) or lose some creature comforts (ac, heat, air bags etc..)

If you are gonna be on street tires it might come down to who can launch better, but if you are on drag radials I give you the nod.

 

depending on weather you are looking pretty good, if you got the cash get an underive pulley. Drag radials will help too. make sure all systems are in good shape and that the car is tuned up. get any unnes weight out too

 

Great replies keep em commin

 

I wouldnt worry about either, he probably has every mod in the book to get that 96 running that,there insanely slow outta the factory, and the 02 isnt much faster, neither really react great to bolt ons also...Some good driving and you should beat both...Do you have a selectable 1st gear, if so you have 323's if not you have 273's,if thats the case get some 373's asap....Just finish your bolt ons, get some nice long tubes and regardless of how they mod, they'll both have a he!! of a time running w/ you withouth FI

 

ya know a 75 shot and they dont stand a chance to even come close

 

you got the 02 beat, but you may have a lil bit of trouble with the 96, but hey you dont have to worry about missing a gear.

Try braking the car and accelerating it to the point were its about to start spinning the tires. Then all you do is let go of the brake and floor it. This just makes you start at higher RPMs but it seems to work

 

IMO don't waste your money on an underdrive pulley. You *may* pick up .02 ET - not much more even on a good day.

The 'quick 'n dirty' way is with the 75 shot along with some BFG DR's. That should put you in the mid 13's and way out in front of the '96 moose-stang

The better way, IMO, is headers, gears, converter and DR's.

If it took the guy with the 96 'stang a while to get to 13.9 you can bet he's probably tried every trick in the book - including weight reduction. Follow the advice of pulling every piece of weight out of the car you can. Rull of thumb: Every 100 lbs. of weight reduction = .1 better ET.

Good luck!

 

It doesn't seem like you are worrying about passing emissions so I would do the egr and air delete. I like the underdrive pulley not for the track time diff. but it gives a little better throttle response for everyday driving. Those gears are killing you though when you get into stuff like a stall so when you can change them out for some 3.73's 3.42's or so. I have the same year car and I got a set of used shorty headers and y-pipe for $200. If you got a set of used long tubes I dont know how much $ that would be but going into your cut-out you could gain some good time and mph on the 1/4.

 

you'd be suprised, best money I ever spent. with the underdrive pulley being my only change, shifting @6k rather then 5700 and in slightly better air I saw a full .5 sec and 3mph. bought it used for $40

my buddys 94 A4 had 3 mods
Ultra Z hood with Ram Air, SLP 2otl Cat back and an underdrive pulley

he pulled back seat, spare and jack out, but had added ground effects

he ran 13.34 @104 on 18in wheels



if this is a one time deal, and you guys are all gonna be at the track. suprise them and completly gut your car. I did that to a buddy once for a grudge match. Showed up at the track. The inside of my car had all nesecary controls, a radio and a drivers seat/belt and that was it. Gave me the edge i needed too!

 

Yes, I would be very surprised indeed.

I did back to back runs, changing the pulley in the pits. Two baseline runs before changing the pulley, then three runs after for an average. ET improvement was an average of .02 better with the pulley.

That's just my experience with an underdrive pulley. Your results may be different

My guess is most of your improvement came form the higher shift point and better air. If you didn't have instrumentation to measure ambient air conditions you're only guessing at how much different the air really is. How about wind speed and direction? Was it the same too? Just wondering.

 

Get a Cold Air...

 

He already has one:

 

didnt have any D/A readings and it was 3 years ago. From what I recall the slower times were on a 95* day about 80% humididty. the faster time were run at about 80*deg day with maybe 50% humidity. Wind on both days was non existent. I wish we would have baselined my buddys car. 13.3 with those 3 mods is impressive. he was beating up on LS1s with lid and catback all day!

 

What I've learned over the past couple years w/the '94 TA, being an automatic and all, is that if you have a Hypertech 160 thermostat, and can afford the HPP, use the 160 setting to keep it as cool as possible, maybe an icebag on the intake before the race, and mess with the stock shift points a bit. You'd be surprised how much difference it can make, if your car responds to it. Mine did, but I'm also on my 2nd tranny w/sticky tires and other mods.