All in all I was happy. I was realy hoping for 12's but at least I hit some good 60's.

R/T: .093
60': 1.888
330: 5.498
1/8: 8.514
mph: 81.25
1000: 11.141
1/4: 13.370
mph: 101.24

So I did great out of the hole, and my 1/8 was fairly strong, but after that my top end seems to be non existant. I dunno if it is valve train issues or what. Needless to say I need about 4 10th to get me into the 12's. That run was done in drive, and the tranny shifted me to better et's, I manual shifed and got about the same trap speed, but 13.4 et's.

BTW I was hitting 1.8s from my first to last run that night, and was amazed at the combination of my Fuddle 3K and MT DR's.

 

Does anyone have any good ideas why my car seems to peter out after the 1/8th? I was thinking its in the valvetrain, anyone have any suggestions?

 

3rd gear slipping?

 

Its an LT1 j/k. Looking at your mph, it doesnt seems to really fall off. 20mph is about the norm from 1/8th to 1/4 and your about as exact as you can get. Nice times. My car has similiar mods to yours. Im adding a cutout in a month so hopefully it will pick up some more. BTW, were you brake stalling it or mashing the gas off the line. I get better times leaving off idle since the converter flashes a bit higher than brake stalling it. I love my MTs too Oh, how do you like the 3.42s? Ive got 3.23s and thinking about finding a 3.42 rear to swap. and ET before/after?

 

You would think a cut out would help your top end, but mine sure didn't. I do not dead hook my launches for numorus reasons the biggest being it is VERY harsh on your drivetrain. However even when I finish rebuilding my rear end I will still flash as it is has show the best results for me and numorus others here at CZ28.com. John at Fuddle even recomends it. I flash from about 1400-1600RPM.

I like my 3.42s just fine, but I am going to 3.73s when I swap gears out in my rebuild. They cost the same as 3.42s and will help a little more off the line. I would assume your ETs will drop slightly with 3.42s but not much as your just stepping up one size, and its not much of a change. If you were to go with 3.73s you would see more of a difference. The biggest difference will be in your 60'.

I know LT1s are all about bottom end torque, but running 101mph at a 13.3et shows there is a top end issue. Intake Exhuast cars can run 99, 100 mph traps and 13.7-14.1 ets for what I see here on the board. There is a girl here that just ran 13.9@99mph. At .6ths less ET I should be at 104-105 at least.

And no slipping in any gears.

 

Thats what I was saying about flashing it, except I do it from idle. Have you ever ran without the tires? Reason asking is I consistently lose about 1.25mph going from street tires to MTs(1/8 time). Your even running a higher mph than I am. Fastest I ever trapped was 82.02 (1/8)and that was a 13.4 102.xx run at a different track (street tires). So keep that in mind with hooking. BTW, with an auto the driveline shock is much less than a manual. There have been people with A4s in the 11s on the 10 bolts because it doesnt shock the drivetrain like a clutch dump does. Im not saying its garunteed to not break, but it will hold up longer than you might think. But the 3.73 is going to be less durable than the 3.42 you have now. You have another .1-.15 in the 60ft. Nice runs, just trying to help.

 

Right launching with a stall from idle is called "dead hooking" it. I havent run with street tires but I know they can't hook worth a darn. I can get on it at 40mph and they will break loose. With a manual a little bit of spin is actually good, but with an auto spin is bad. You are absolutly right that 3.73s will be less durable, then a set of new 3.42s, but my 3.42's are not in good shape. They are actually sheared on the edges, and all the rear end bearings are shot both the pinion bearnings and carrier. It needs a rebuild bad, and it could be a good reason as to my slower traps.

I know I seem like I'm complaining, but I am happy with my runs, and very happy with my 60's.

 

I was under the assumption that dead hooking was not spinning off the line. Who knows. All I was saying about mph was that street tires generally trap higher than slicks or MTs. Using the info from your tech post, you said the previous owner trapped 102 with a 2.x 60ft, which leads me to believe street tires. Next time you go to the track, make 1 run on street tires before throwing on the MTs, and you will see what I mean. Of course your ET will be higher, but the mph will be too. BTW, do you have a laptop to log your runs? timing, blms, etc? I noticed I have to clean my MAF everytime I go to the track for the best AFGS. I was only getting 220 or so peak and after cleaning get around 310-318. Since I was getting more air, my injector duty cycle went up too (87-89 WOT). It gets dirty with WS6 though.

 

You are right. Dead hooking is when you give it all it's got and it doesn't even chirp a tire.

Hitting the gas from an idle is called flashing the converter. This allows for a softer hit to the tires as the car will start to move before the torque builds in the converter.

Holding the brakes tight and raising the rpm to any set point is called stalling up the converter. You can stall it soft as in 400-600 rpm above idle. Or you can stall it hard as in reving it to the point that you can't hold the car in place anymore.
The higher that you stall it the harder that it will hit the tires and if you're having traction problems that's not the way to go.
Now if you have a well set up car you can stall it hard and dead hook it and get the best 60' and et possible.

 

I'll be darned I just looked at Fuddles site again and your absolutly right.

Sorry about that Beni!

Well Let me correct my previous statement. I would "stall" the converter to 1400-1600 RPM and dead hook off the line. All this time I thought I was flashing it. If stalling is more effective (and worked well for me) I think I'll keep to it. Thanks AL SS590 M6 for setting me straight.

Will stalling or flashing have any effect at all on overall Trap speed?

 

Oh it's all tied together. For an example my car. If I stage and leave exactly the same way I can vary my reaction time by changing my stall speed. 2300 rpm = .08s 2400 rpm = .04s and 2500 rpm = .000 to slight red.
When running a .400 protree I stalled to 3000 and ran the best times ever. The higher that I stall the quicker the 60' the better the et. But when bracket racing I don't care about the best et I want to leave consistantly and run my number so I leave at 2450.

 

Heh I know a better 60' will net better ETs, I was just wondering if flashing and stalling will produce a higher trap. Kinda like when I manual shift I get a higher trap, but the same ET

 

i would expect a better 60' outta a 3k stall and 3.42s..my lt1 with 2.73 gear and stock stall on street tires pulled a 1.96 and a 13.37 @ 102.

 

u got lucky...prolly amazing track prep....

 

1.96 with that is really really good. Best I ever had on street tires was 1.91 and that was 3.23 and stall. Great track prep that night as I was unable to ever get 1.9x again. I did it all igt that 1 time though. Now I get consistent 1.75-1.77 60s with current setup. I think you could be in thr 1.7s, but like you said...depends on the track. When those tires hook, damn it just goes.