First time at the track..I stunk
First time at the track..I stunk
Went out to the track at Leicester NY NYIRP (rskrause, I know you go there, so any "inside" help would be greatly appreciated) on Friday night. I have never been out to the drags, driving or spectating. I was in my blown, full bolt on 94 LT1 M6 of course. Anyways, I'll just post my best time, which for what other people ran, and I know what my car can do, I was disappointed.
Weather
The weather was partly cloudy and moderate humidity at 75 degrees during day and about 65 at night (track was about 70 degrees at night still). Now, I have never done an intentional burnout so I was a little apprehensive of something going wrong there, even though I know it is really easy for my car.
Tires: Nitto 555 strret tires on 17'' zr1s p275 on all four corners
Suspension: Stock shocks but everything else is modified for taking corners
.
My technique: I just read the do's and don'ts of drag racing and I have to say I went through the water. It seems like there isn't much room to drive around it. But maybe I am wrong. I did very modest burnouts (not much smoke at all) but enough to get the water off I think.
I left when I saw the green light. It seemed like people were leaving just before the green and their times were being recorded still. So just about everybody got the jump on me. Traction was terrible for me and I was not able to launch at anything other than idle due to wheel spin. Shifts were made at about 5k-5.5k rpm when blower is really cranking. The blower is a S-trim vortec running 11 psi.
Best Run:
R/T - 1.129 (what does R/T mean?)
60' - 2.255
33 - 6.013
1/8 - 9.022
MPH - 84.83
1000 - 11.557
1/4 - 13.631
MPH - 108.99
Any suggestions besides the obvious get slicks answers to my crappy times.
-Adam
Weather
The weather was partly cloudy and moderate humidity at 75 degrees during day and about 65 at night (track was about 70 degrees at night still). Now, I have never done an intentional burnout so I was a little apprehensive of something going wrong there, even though I know it is really easy for my car.
Tires: Nitto 555 strret tires on 17'' zr1s p275 on all four corners
Suspension: Stock shocks but everything else is modified for taking corners
.My technique: I just read the do's and don'ts of drag racing and I have to say I went through the water. It seems like there isn't much room to drive around it. But maybe I am wrong. I did very modest burnouts (not much smoke at all) but enough to get the water off I think.
I left when I saw the green light. It seemed like people were leaving just before the green and their times were being recorded still. So just about everybody got the jump on me. Traction was terrible for me and I was not able to launch at anything other than idle due to wheel spin. Shifts were made at about 5k-5.5k rpm when blower is really cranking. The blower is a S-trim vortec running 11 psi.
Best Run:
R/T - 1.129 (what does R/T mean?)
60' - 2.255
33 - 6.013
1/8 - 9.022
MPH - 84.83
1000 - 11.557
1/4 - 13.631
MPH - 108.99
Any suggestions besides the obvious get slicks answers to my crappy times.
-Adam
I Race with a full tree so I take off just after I see the third yellow light. I have gotten some good R/T. I am not very consistent though.
As far as hooking, what are you doing when you are at the light are you reving it high and dumping? Are you gradually getting on it? I've never used Nitto's before but I would imagine you should be getting better then 2.2 with those tires. I would try altering your launching procedure as well as your tire pressure to find out what works best for your setup.
~Jim~
As far as hooking, what are you doing when you are at the light are you reving it high and dumping? Are you gradually getting on it? I've never used Nitto's before but I would imagine you should be getting better then 2.2 with those tires. I would try altering your launching procedure as well as your tire pressure to find out what works best for your setup.
~Jim~
I would try to work on your launch. You're 60' is kind of slow for having nitto's but I understand you do have a supercharger. I would think you should be in the 12's easy with a good launch and good shifting. Try to get your 60' at 1.9 on street tires. I'm not familiar with launching an m6, but a buddy of mine launches around 4500RPM and feathers the clutch and gets 1.65 60's on Drag Radial (Maybe pick up a set?). My z28 ran a 13.8 with just a cut-out and street tires.
Good luck and keep racing!
Good luck and keep racing!
I was there on friday night. got a pic of your car?
Wait, I talked to you I think. My car is half primer.
You'll probably gain a few mph easily just be shifting at 6k.
Edit- Yea, I talked to you. We were talking about shifters and winter beaters.
Wait, I talked to you I think. My car is half primer.
You'll probably gain a few mph easily just be shifting at 6k.
Edit- Yea, I talked to you. We were talking about shifters and winter beaters.
Last edited by confused327; Jul 17, 2007 at 01:14 PM.
How much power is your car making? To be running that much boost I'd assume you have a built motor and not just bolt ons. A stock LT1 might live for 2 passes at 11 psi. Even a mild motor (or stock one) with 11 psi would still make way north of 400rwhp, which also leads me to beleive there's something wrong with you only trapping 109 mph.
You need stickier tires, some stronger driveline parts, to shift more quickly at over 6k, and practice.
That's about all I can say without any more details such as how much power your car is making.
You need stickier tires, some stronger driveline parts, to shift more quickly at over 6k, and practice.
That's about all I can say without any more details such as how much power your car is making.
Last edited by Z97LT1; Jul 17, 2007 at 02:21 PM.
R/T stands for reaction time. This is how much time passed between when the light went green and when your front tire interrupted the start beam. Depending on the system used at your particular track, sometimes 0.000 is perfect, and sometimes 0.500 is perfect. In more rare cases, 0.400 is perfect. Either way, if your R/T is below whatever is considered "perfect" at your track, it's considered a foul. You lose the race, the red light on the tree comes on to indicate your foul.
Most people begin their launch process when they see the 2nd or 3rd yellow bulb. This gives time for all of the mechanical parts in your car to wind up -- that actually takes more time than you would think. There are things you can do to shorten that time (tires, tire pressures, suspension changes, clutch, clutch technique, launch RPM... the list goes on).
108.9mph? On a supercharged LT1 M6? How much boost? Are you intercooled? Who tuned it? I ask because I can pull off traps like that in my lid+catback, street tire LS1 M6.
Last edited by JakeRobb; Jul 17, 2007 at 02:29 PM.
How much power is your car making? To be running that much boost I'd assume you have a built motor and not just bolt ons. A stock LT1 might live for 2 passes at 11 psi. Even a mild motor (or stock one) with 11 psi would still make way north of 400rwhp, which also leads me to beleive there's something wrong with you only trapping 109 mph.
You need stickier tires, some stronger driveline parts, to shift more quickly at over 6k, and practice.
That's about all I can say without any more details such as how much power your car is making.
You need stickier tires, some stronger driveline parts, to shift more quickly at over 6k, and practice.
That's about all I can say without any more details such as how much power your car is making.
I didn't have the ***** to take my eyes off the track to look at my boost gague but I would imagain that i was around 9-10psi due to not shifting at absolute redline.
Since CamaroRacing12 doesn't seem to speak the same version of English as the rest of us, I'll clarify.
R/T stands for reaction time. This is how much time passed between when the light went green and when your front tire interrupted the start beam. Depending on the system used at your particular track, sometimes 0.000 is perfect, and sometimes 0.500 is perfect. In more rare cases, 0.400 is perfect. Either way, if your R/T is below whatever is considered "perfect" at your track, it's considered a foul. You lose the race, the red light on the tree comes on to indicate your foul.
Most people begin their launch process when they see the 2nd or 3rd yellow bulb. This gives time for all of the mechanical parts in your car to wind up -- that actually takes more time than you would think. There are things you can do to shorten that time (tires, tire pressures, suspension changes, clutch, clutch technique, launch RPM... the list goes on).
108.9mph? On a supercharged LT1 M6? How much boost? Are you intercooled? Who tuned it? I ask because I can pull off traps like that in my lid+catback, street tire LS1 M6.
R/T stands for reaction time. This is how much time passed between when the light went green and when your front tire interrupted the start beam. Depending on the system used at your particular track, sometimes 0.000 is perfect, and sometimes 0.500 is perfect. In more rare cases, 0.400 is perfect. Either way, if your R/T is below whatever is considered "perfect" at your track, it's considered a foul. You lose the race, the red light on the tree comes on to indicate your foul.
Most people begin their launch process when they see the 2nd or 3rd yellow bulb. This gives time for all of the mechanical parts in your car to wind up -- that actually takes more time than you would think. There are things you can do to shorten that time (tires, tire pressures, suspension changes, clutch, clutch technique, launch RPM... the list goes on).
108.9mph? On a supercharged LT1 M6? How much boost? Are you intercooled? Who tuned it? I ask because I can pull off traps like that in my lid+catback, street tire LS1 M6.
Yeah, I guess the reaction time being bad makes sense. To be completely honest Idk if I am intercooled. I don't see an intercooler from the top of the engine bay and don't think I have seen it from underneath the car either but things tend to be cramped and in the way. The manual says there is an intercooler though. My tire pressure was dropped to 23 rear and 25 front. I heard that the fronts are supposed to be mjuch more inflated than the rears.
follow the pipe from the blower to the tb, if there's a radiator looking thing then that's your intercooler.
I personally leave on the last yellow. You'll get a time slip even if you red light. R/T doesn't have any effect on ET.
I personally leave on the last yellow. You'll get a time slip even if you red light. R/T doesn't have any effect on ET.
there has got to be something wrong, is sounds like a stock car...i've peddled a 300rwhp NA 6 speed car down the track spinning well past the 60 ft and on the 1-2 shift on street tires (not nitto's) and have been faster than 13.8.. something isnt right, are you sure its set up for 11 psi? even so a fully built motor minus boost should be faster than you're going


