First time down the track
First time down the track
Hi
I am new here and sry for my poor english. I bought a 93 Camaro few months ago and started to fit some bolt-on's(more like freaking cut, grind, drill, weld and then bolt-on) to it.
Previous owner had run 13,1 on that car. He had fitted LE2 pack on it, but it's far from working well. It's quite obvious that car is running toooooooo rich.
I fitted 4,10 richmond gear on it, edelbrock torque arm, relocation kit and trailing arms. Also changed th700 to th350 with manual valvebody and converter with 2800-3200 stall. Pro Rachet shifter was also in pack. I ripped out all the interior and left only dash, door panels, racing bucket and belts. Front wheels are originals but i changed the rear one's to 26X10 M/T ET drag's and they are fitted to Weld draglites. Also had a new paintjob done, so the car would look better.
This weekend i finally got down to the track (well i am from Estonia and we don't have real dragstrips yet, so we race on old airfields and it's made out of concrete, no glue or anything) on our testing day. First run was 12,58 with 110,78 mph. 60 ft was 1,86.
Next i got 12,312 with 112,5 and 60 ft 1,830.
Run few more 12,3-ish times but finally got better 60ft time: 1,787. Time improved also: 12,245 with 112,63 mph. All the times with 112 mph i was running trough the finish line with my shift light on, so the 4,10 is pretty good.
I am going to run bracket class in here this year, we don't allow throttle stops here so we'll see how it goes. Still have many issues, because stall was not even close to 2800. Car started to move on 2000rpm-s. I don't know what's the problem there. Also the a/f mixture is way off.
Videos: first is 12,2 and second 12,3
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UjR0HXJb-jM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T7I1mG2Bt4U
I am new here and sry for my poor english. I bought a 93 Camaro few months ago and started to fit some bolt-on's(more like freaking cut, grind, drill, weld and then bolt-on) to it.
Previous owner had run 13,1 on that car. He had fitted LE2 pack on it, but it's far from working well. It's quite obvious that car is running toooooooo rich.
I fitted 4,10 richmond gear on it, edelbrock torque arm, relocation kit and trailing arms. Also changed th700 to th350 with manual valvebody and converter with 2800-3200 stall. Pro Rachet shifter was also in pack. I ripped out all the interior and left only dash, door panels, racing bucket and belts. Front wheels are originals but i changed the rear one's to 26X10 M/T ET drag's and they are fitted to Weld draglites. Also had a new paintjob done, so the car would look better.
This weekend i finally got down to the track (well i am from Estonia and we don't have real dragstrips yet, so we race on old airfields and it's made out of concrete, no glue or anything) on our testing day. First run was 12,58 with 110,78 mph. 60 ft was 1,86.
Next i got 12,312 with 112,5 and 60 ft 1,830.
Run few more 12,3-ish times but finally got better 60ft time: 1,787. Time improved also: 12,245 with 112,63 mph. All the times with 112 mph i was running trough the finish line with my shift light on, so the 4,10 is pretty good.
I am going to run bracket class in here this year, we don't allow throttle stops here so we'll see how it goes. Still have many issues, because stall was not even close to 2800. Car started to move on 2000rpm-s. I don't know what's the problem there. Also the a/f mixture is way off.
Videos: first is 12,2 and second 12,3
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UjR0HXJb-jM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T7I1mG2Bt4U
Nice videos and nice looking car. It looks like it hooks and goes really well with no tirespin. It should make for a perfect bracket race car. If you make more power with a good A/F tune and step up to a true 3500 stall converter, it will run 11's no problem. Goodluck and welcome aboard!
I started to know truth about advertised stall speed and real ones. So it is normal for the car to start moving around 2000 rpms allthough the advertised stall on this B&M converter was 2800-3200 - i have to get myself new one. Weird thing is, that when i finished and turned back to the pits freaking converter did not work under 3000 rpm-s. With tuning i have two options - to use the original ECU or buy totally programmable EMS. With first one is the problem, that noone in here does it. Well they claim they do, but these "specialists" can mess up more than make it work. The second option is pretty safe but will cost me alot of money.
First race is in this weekend and i have to race it as it is. We'll see how it goes, still have a leak from the radiator cap, got new one and try it out. Also i have to grind off some more from the rear breaks, cause they were still hitting the wheels. Alternator belt was also getting a bit crooked, so i have to see whats going on in there and get one for spare.
First race is in this weekend and i have to race it as it is. We'll see how it goes, still have a leak from the radiator cap, got new one and try it out. Also i have to grind off some more from the rear breaks, cause they were still hitting the wheels. Alternator belt was also getting a bit crooked, so i have to see whats going on in there and get one for spare.
Little update. Second race my car broke down... it just went different time every race and i lost in the first round.
Third race was really depressing also at the beginning, because cyl went out and i had to race with only seven. But poor some luck and consistant RT together and i won again.
Here is a question. I don't hink i want to race in bracket next year. I try to sell the car, but there is no interest in here. What would be the best heads and cam for my engine, if i wanna run nitrous.
Third race was really depressing also at the beginning, because cyl went out and i had to race with only seven. But poor some luck and consistant RT together and i won again.
Here is a question. I don't hink i want to race in bracket next year. I try to sell the car, but there is no interest in here. What would be the best heads and cam for my engine, if i wanna run nitrous.
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