Thank god it was not the engine or tranny. First pass ever on the 383 and my torque arm decides it is not up to the task. Ofcourse the TQ arm can not die alone and must take my drive shaft with it I did not even make it to the 60' to at least get a time for that.

This sucks

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95Z M6
383


and a few other mods

 

Did you have a driveshaft loop? Did you hook up and then break the torque arm right away? Where did it break at? The stock torque arms are weak, they are just sheet metal, go with a tubular one from like LGmotorsports or something, sometims that $500 in the beginning is worth it not to break a driveshaft. Good luck on your next run after you replace it, you must have a lot of power from that 383 cuz I have seen people run with the stock torque arm and get in the high 11's. Good luck and post your times here after you get a good pass.

 

You must have a lot of power....

I still have the stock torque arm and cur 1.5-1.6 sixty foot times. Lots of passes on my car.

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'94 Black Z28, 383, 700R4
1/8 ET: 7.49
1/4 ET: 11.86
1/4 MPH: 112
http://www.downtime.cz28.com.index.html

 

Yeah. I did have a loop. It was a Spohn TQ arm with a solid mount and loop. I should clairify that it most likely was not the TQ arm's that caused the problem. It looks like the top two bolts either broke or pulled the threads out of the rear end housing. Not sure which since I have not pulled the rear out of the car. The top plate is in tact but the bottom plate, that is still bolted to the rear, is bent at about a 75 deg angle.

That allowed the rear to rotate, wast the rear u-joint, and bend the snot out of the rear joint ears on my Lingenfelter shaft.

All in all a total mess and the last chain of events I thought would ever happen to the car.

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95Z M6
383


and a few other mods

 

are you running a moser 12 bolt? a buddy of mine had the same problem with his. the bolts loosened and ripped the torque arm up.

 

Yes I am running the Moser. I am hoping that they just backed out and did not pull threads. I don't feeling like drilling broken bolts or putting a helicoil in the hole.

I torqued the bolts to about 100 Ft lbs when I installed the TQ arm last year. I would not have imagined they would have backed out. I guess I learned my lesson the expensive way. This time they get a big gob of loctite.

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95Z M6
383


and a few other mods

 

that is about the only thing I am not happy about my Moser. I have been looking to see if I can drill at least one of the holes ALL the way through

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Ellis
Team Captain
Team North West F-Body
www.teamnwfbody.org

 

I spun my rear up under my car a couple weeks ago.What a mess.Mine was torque arm related not the mount.

My mount on my 9 inch has 3, 3/4 fine thread bolts that are threaded for 5 inches holding the plate in.I got not see it pulling apart.

ED

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95 Formula Solid Roller 9 Inch 4.10 H.D. Locker,6 speed
Best 1/4 12.074 Best MPH 115.56 on STOCK HEADS


94 Hardtop Heads up Drag car


94 Formula A4 Stock
120,000 miles 13.82

Tow Rig 84 suburban 3/4 4wheel drive 388 small block

 

You guys are not making me feel good about my rear end combo. I have a sphon Torque Arm and Mosher 12 bold. I'll have to make sure the bolts are tight before I race the car. Man I'd have to say I would be REALLY mad if on my first pass at the track w/ this combo if the Torque Arm broke and destroyed my drive shaft.

How strong is the mounting point for the front of the Sphon Torque Arms? I guess there may not be a lot of stress there, but those 4 bolts are kinda small.

Jason

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Plates: "Stock 95"
1995 Firebird Formula
O'ring/4bolt 383, GTP Race Ported AFR 210s, Yank TH400, Yank 3800 Stall, Trans Break, Moser 12 Bolt w/ 3.73s, and the usual stuff like Hooker Long Tubes, 58mm TB, Sphon Torque Arm, etc....

 

i've been woundering that also. hey is your sphon torque arm really clunky. i hear mine clunk on launches...

 

Not sure what comes with the 12 Bolt, but all I can say is 4 words:

Grade 8 use Loctite





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Kurtis Tamez
LT4-396.com
97 Z28 LT4-396
94 Firehawk LT1-396
Team NW F-Body

 

I haven't gotten a chance to race my set up yet. I am hopping to sometime next month though lol...

Yeah I plan on using locktite now. I wasn't going to but given what everyone has said, I can't see not doing it.

Jason

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Plates: "Stock 95"
1995 Firebird Formula
O'ring/4bolt 383, GTP Race Ported AFR 210s, Yank TH400, Yank 3800 Stall, Trans Break, Moser 12 Bolt w/ 3.73s, and the usual stuff like Hooker Long Tubes, 58mm TB, Sphon Torque Arm, etc....

 

Oh sure...now you tell me



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95Z M6
383


and a few other mods

 

Sorry to hear that, but as they say, **** happens

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hchap63@hotmail.com

01/SS, Black A4, TR224/112, ARE stage 2 heads, lid, FTRA, PMAF, PTB, Grott LT, true duals, NGK, ASP pulley, Vig 3200, LCA, poly TAB, Convo pros, ET Streets, 3300 raceweight. Little bit of juice..

Best ET: (All bolt ons) 11.496@116.42 (1.52)

Current best after Head & cam & nitrous:
10.88@124 (1.60)

Motown Muscle King of The Hill winner 6-8-02. Want some? Get some!!

RIP #3 Dirty Dale!!!

 

I know your pain. Last year I installed a Street Twin, a Moser 12 bolt, a new Denny's driveshaft and a brand new set of ET Streets all at once. First pass -- BOOM -- same as you. Ripped the torque arm off the top of the Moser, slammed the DS into the underside of the car (although it was steel, so it survived and just needed rebalancing), made the Moser about 20X louder, damaged my e-brake cables, etc...Of course I was stupid enough to put on another stock torque arm from a salvage yard and do it again within 5 passes!

I suspect that the problem was pinion angle created by the Moser. I had to do quite a bit of adjustment with my new BMR arm to get it within spec. Did you check your pinion angle with the Moser? My car only makes about 350-360 rwhp so it wasn't a power thing.

Rich

Rich