I'm most likely going to take my car to the track sometime this summer, get a couple runs and see how she compares. It will be my first time racing. I could use some pointers on driving but that's for another thread.

My question is how is my setup? Anything cheap I can do to drop my 60" or drop a little off the ET?

1994 Camaro Z28
A4 w/ 3.23s
BFG gForce TA KDWS (ALL SEASON - not KDW)
Shorty Headers w/ Flowmaster 40 where the cat was - Straight pipe out the back.
LT4 KM
K&N FIPK


Anything else I can do cheap to help? My goal is to run 13.6 @ 98+

On the street it seems to spin too much, Don't know how much that will be on the track. I'm thinkin about giving it a 1200 RPM launch and moderatly moving it down to WOT by 15-20 MPH

Anything I can do for Like $200-300?

SFC's?

 

Tires.

 

I thought this may be the case. Can I borrow a friends DR's?

Maybe I'll get some ZR1's for my birthday, then I'll buy some BFG KDW's. 275's out back pleanty?


I forgot to mention the car is a Daily Driver. I know if you play you have to pay. I can drive my dads Silverado when it snows tho. I can't afford to blow my 10 Bolt, but I think that'd be hard to do with a mostly stock LT1.

 

Any Idea what I'll run as is? First time at the track too.

 

best bang for your buck will be tires and weight reduction. the easy stuff that isnt too hard to live w/o are the spare tire/jack and rear seats. You can go alot farther in this area, but its a question of how much you want to ***** the car out

 

i'ts a daily driver so I'm not going crazy, but I'm taking out the spare/jack most likely.

 

A pair of drag radials and some weight reduction and you'll hit your goal with no problem.

 

Tires. I was at 13.5, at 101 with my 94 with shortie headers and drag radials, but it was an M6 so I had 3.42s... The gearing isn't in your favor. Weight reduction would help and so would sea level conditions. Basically, some drag radials are all I would do until you get a decent baseline. The next logical step would be an aftermarket converter, cooler, and lockup switch. That will put you better than where you want to go and as long as you keep the converter around 2800 or so, reasonably tight, your drivability will be fine, the cooler will allow it to "live" and a lockup switch will do wonders for highway mpg.

 

Do you think I can pull a 13 my first time at the track with my mods on BFG's? My coworker says no way in hell, but I've seen a few LT1's run 13.8-13.9's stock.

 

Put the MAF screen back in...

It gains you ZERO horsepower and can cause headaches later...I learned the hardway when tuning issues arose from it....

13's are possible if you got the 60'.... Do it to it man!!

 

I don't have it, I noticed it was gone when I put my CAI in.

 

If you want to go fast don't put ZR-1 wheels on your car. Every car I have had slowed down because of them. I ran much better on stock rims with sticky tires.
For 200-300 dollars you could add a custom tune by MadZ28.com. 160 t-stat and a cutout. That could get you a tenth or two. Also if you haven't done it already research free mods and do all those.

 

Stay with 16x8 stockers for wheels. You need the taller sidewall of the 16 over the 17s and in most cases you'll drop some weight, too. I ran 275 40 R17 BFG DRs for years and never hooked anywhere near as well as I do now going back to stock 5 stars and 255 50 R16 M/T ET Radials. I guarantee you will out-hook anyone running those the 17x11s and 315s with those little 255s.

--Alan

 

With a good burn-out and nailing it of the line (with shifter in 3) you should reach your goal (this is of course with some sticky tires)