sideways_Into_3rd

post ur setup with these shocks if u dont mind !!!

last time i hit the track i had the fronts on 1 and the rears on 2 and 3 (right side 3) .. then i hit the wall .. wondering if the shocks being way too soft contributed to my accident

anyway i wanna know what all of u are running ur shocks at so i can have a good starting point next time i hit the track .. (post ur 60 along with a summary of ur setup too if u will)

also could use advice on how to tune my HALs at the track ..

my suspension setup: no front swaybar, rear 26mm bar with poly ends and bushings, going to have LCA brackets put in for next raceday .. stock uncut springs out back . hals, stock TA (reinforced), lcas, phr, etc etc...


thanx

IllusionalTA

3 is pretty soft.. but shouldn't have contributed to hitting the wall.. i run 8 all day in the rears and on the street.. but 1 or 2 in the front only way to hit the wall w/ that.. is if you *** dropped and the wheel well got the slick caught up .. and locked u up.. that sound right?

Nostang 96z

I used 6 on the backs and 3 on the fronts. I will be stiffening up the rear some more the next time I see some sunlight on the east coast on a fri or sat. BTW I run my ET Streets at 18psi too.
Later
Matt

sideways_Into_3rd

holly schit i never thought of THAT ONE !!! .. im still trying to put the pieces together and figure out how i lost it on the 2-3 shift !!! i had been running rears on 3L 4R all night and for the last run (when i creamed the wall) i dropped them to 2L 3R !! that was the only thing i changed !!!!

damn ... such a stupid mistake !!! i wish i wouldve known better



btw, i was running 15x10.5x26 ET streets at 13 psi .. they would NOT hook whatsoever .. best 60 was 1.8 !! (they were a few years old too.. possibly dried up)

one more thing .. do u guys recommend going 1 notch stiffer on the right rear shock to act as an airbag !? even with a 26mm rear bar ?!

Redbird

Generally an old rule of thumb is to start the rears at 50-50 or midway on the Hals. I think you can tune from there with different settings for differing conditions.

Set the front shocks soft as possible to get all the cars weight transfered to/onto the rear tires/suspension! I went the cheap way and just drained my front shocks of all fluid and air. Couldn't afford Hals or spent the money elsewhere. The car DOES transfer into a biutch upon launch now! Some have criticized but if it works, that is the means to the end!

As more N2O is injested, travel limiters will be placed on the car.
Right now a 50 hit AFTER the convertor stalls nets 6" of front tire height. I'm gonna play some more with the window switch to make the N2O hit about 50 RPM after stall and extend another 200 RPM onto the topend RPM. I should be capable of 11.5X's on a tiny 50 shot.

Adding that NEXT 100 HP should be interesting! Sometime this year, I promise! Maybe after I take a few of the wifes hormone pills to grow my testies a little bigger!!!

Pro Stock John

My best 60ft is NA, and off the footbrake:
1.48

I run the fronts at 2/2, and 4/4 in back to start.

Up here I usually end up running the fronts looser, I like to see if I pick up any 60 ft, if I don't I put them back to 2/2. Not much difference between 1/1 and 2/2 but for me just that change has been worth like a .02 reduction in 60 ft times... and when I am at a 1.51 looking for a 1.49 I'm happy to see that happen.

I'd like to run the rears at 5/5 or 6/6 but the tracks up here don't hook well enuff for me to stiffen up the rears.

My buddy just cut a 1.47 with 2/2 in front and 5/5 in back with a lighter car.