anyone here see any real gain when removing front swaybar
anyone here see any real gain when removing front swaybar
I know its supposed to help reduce the 60 ft, but by how much I don't know. Also is this something that will only help the real fast cars, or is it something that will benefit everyone. I'm trying to reduce that 60 ft as much as possible, before using sticky tires(I can't afford a new rear just yet) I figure this is a free easy mod, and I know some people just drive around with the thing off on the street, which is what I would probably do since I'm pretty darn lazy, unless its dangerous for daily driving. I average 2.3-2.5 60 ft times and it really sucks.
Think of it as a can of beer, and the removal of the sway bar represents one ounce. Basically removing the sway bar will eliminate 10-15 pounds of dead weight up front and facilitate a more efficient weight transfer when you launch. On a stock vehicle it it not dangerous to drive with it off.
Obviously things like loose shocks on the front and drag springs will help a lot, and these mods are more effective without a front sway bar.
The single best thing you can do is to get some tires.
How much will it help? I don't really know except that having it off is better than having it on, plus it is simple to remove (even I can do it).
Obviously things like loose shocks on the front and drag springs will help a lot, and these mods are more effective without a front sway bar.
The single best thing you can do is to get some tires.
How much will it help? I don't really know except that having it off is better than having it on, plus it is simple to remove (even I can do it).
On average I didn't see any difference in my 60 ft., which is where you'd expect to see a difference by removing the bar from a weight transfer standpoint. In 1/4 mile ET I saw an average of 1-2 hundredths. The bar with all the hardware (end links and bolts) weighed in at 11.5 lbs., which is no doubt where the little bit of extra ET came from. The front end comes up noticably quicker and higher. But I didn't have a problem hooking before I removed the bar, so maybe that's why I didn't see a difference in my 60 ft.
You're thinking is kind of backwards. You said you don't want to break the rear but you're removing the swaybar to get better weight transfer and a better 60ft. A 1.8 60ft on et streets is the same stress as a 1.8 60ft on street tires. I realize you won't break the rear by removing the swaybar, but you also won't the rear by putting sticky tires in and just launching light. To go fast, you gotta break stuff.
Good luck!
btw...do you have an auto or stick?
Edit: Read your sig...throw some dr's on and if you're afraid to break the rear, then just launch light.
Good luck!btw...do you have an auto or stick?
Edit: Read your sig...throw some dr's on and if you're afraid to break the rear, then just launch light.
I've got an M6 I definetely need practice on my launches, and I know the parts might break, I'm just looking to reduce it enough to get a decent ET. My average last time which is getting better was 2.3-2.4 My next upgrade will probably be an 8.8 ford that people are converting I think in Texas? I have to do research and see how striong they are, I'm only looking for mid 11's so I think it will be strong enough. Its my daily driver so I'm not gonna push 700 horses. I swear I should have choosen a different hobbie, after my cam swap the clutch went, then after I get a charger the engine will go, seems like it never ends. I love working on cars, but hate spending thousands of dollars that are not really an investment, but you only live once, so I do it
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