My traps are just really low now....with the current gears and stock converter im lucky to hit 103.

 

Check out my sig. I broke into the 12s (just barely!) with similar trap speeds. IT is ALL in how well you get off the line.

 

60 foot times were from 1.54 to 1.56....

It is all about traction and efficiency for ET. MPH is a general gauge of HP.

 

You lose .2 off your ET for every .1 off your 60'. With that new stall I would suspect a 1.7 60' is doable, effectively putting you in the 12.9-13.x range. It wont run consistant 12's but it will run them. Your traps are about the same as mine.

Just for gigles though....Do me a favor next time you run after you get the stall. Let the car cool completely, take your air filter off/out, get your tires nice and warm, flash it (Stomp it from idle) dont stall it (Footbreak it) and let me know how it goes!

 

care to explain this? lol

 

That is how I launch... Flash after the burnout and I leave from just over idle. You have to practice to gain a feel for the reaction time of the vehicle but once you get it down a good light happens with consistency.

The concept is torque multiplication. I am "math stupid" but it has been explained to me several times and in my own experience, and in a lower powered vehicle with a moderate torque converter (mine is a "loose" 3600), my sixty foot times are about a tenth lower if I launch just off idle than they are if I bring it up just below lockup...

 

ahh gotcha.....but why take out the air filter? lol

 

more air flow

 

Same here about the off idle start. Low 1.6x's. SS3600 Yank.

 

I can get low 1.6s with an off idle start with my Yank Pt4000. But I get mid 1.4s to low 1.5s when I stall it up.
Each setup needs to be tested to see what works best.

 

I've tried both way stall vs. flash. I used to swear that stalling did the best job, but now I've found flashing does for me, but only when on DRs

I run a K&N like most people here. Im a member of dixie muscle cars and read over a neat study posted there about K&N and oiled filters in general vs. paper.

The study showed that while a new oiled filter does flow more air (not much more at all) then paper, they get dirty very quickly, and even after recharging them they are never as efficient. Basically unless you have a 5000 mile or less on a K&N filter you are not flowing more air then a paper filter. In most cases you are flowing less, and you are allowing much more dirt etc into your engine.

Being the sceptic I am, I did an experiment at the track, and found I picked up 1 mph, and .2 when I removed my K&N filter vs. when I ran with it.

Thats why I suggested it. Other things that can help drop your times and get you better 60's is to remove your sway bar, so that you get better weight transfer off the line. This will allow your front end to lift up while launching, and put more weight on the back tires. I've read a lot of good things about it, and will be testing it on the 17th.

It never hurts to try new things. I love when AL SS590 M6 hooks me up with some of his good knowledge, or someof the othe rmembers recomend stuff. I give it a try, and normally have good results from it, as you can see from my times in my sig. Not bad for 270 rwph, 170K miles, and intake/exhuast/tune.

 

I agree. But I was going by tnthub's comment about "us" low HP cars. Not yours.

 

I agree when my car was "bolton" I got better 60ft`s by about a tenth(1.66) if I just left off a bit past idle(1200 rpm or so) if I stalled it up I would get a 1.75 or so.both with a 300 vigilante converter

now it is much different I leave at 5500

 

Beings that it's a stock shortblock with heads and cam I'll take that as a compliment.
My input was soley meant to make all aware that there's no best way for all cars, only a best way for your own combo/track.

 

Each car is different. The "low hp" was a generality. I have a loose 3600 stall and a TCI 700R4, with 3.73s and 28" tall tires. I suspect if I had 26" tires and 4.10s I would do better stalling it up rather than launching off idle. Gearing, in the transmission and rear, plus the estimated stall and tire size have a lot to do with what works best. That is why the "combo" is so important when factoring all the variables.

In regards to the earlier air cleaner comment, I am a believer in protecting the intake at the track. I do agree that for some reason, a new air filter always seems to flow better than one that has been cleaned despite what the manufacturer may claim. To that end I simply suggest having one filter for the track and another for street driving in a car that sees dual duty.