ChrisS95TA

I have two scans, one at WOT 1-2 and one idle. THey are both in excel format because I had to manually enter the values from my Autoxray scanner. I am cleaing the throttle body and replacing my IAC next weekend and I want to check if anything else looks bad. In the scan I have high RPM knock retard and my IAC counts are high (above 40 at all times)....other than that I can't really tell too much even after reading this:

http://members.aol.com/InjuneerZZ/ScanMast.htm

ALl the values on my scanner match those on the scanmaster, but I cant really get anything out of comparing different values at different RPMs. If I could email someone the logs that would be great, thanks for any help

ChrisS95TA

I uploaded my WOT scan to a website, also doing the data for an idle scan now. WOuld someone mind looking at my scan at the link below?

http://basic.ip-host.info/chrisspeer/index.html


I added the idle scan to that page, let me know if anyone has problems viewing it, none on my end but who knows. I may have to change the html code for it to work for everyone.


On a side note, I noticed my O2s are sometimes WAY off from each other in the same cell, I double checked and the data I entered into the site above is accurate, sometimes the right is like 500 higher than the left....I am replacing the o2s as soon as they arrive but that is not normal at all right?

jonota

As long as the O2's are still between ~.100 and ~.800 at idle then that is normal.... ie a split of up to .700 is I would not worry about, as long as it is within those bounds.. it is meant to do that.

I don't think 40's for the IAC is actually that high.... I believe mine is in the 30's and it idles like a kitten. Is your idle acting funny?

Jonota

jonota

Alright... looked at your scans..

I noticed that your injector pws went WAY down... which to me indicates that DFCO has been enabled, except that it still have SOME pws as opposed to your decel stage where you had 0 pws... as you should; but you were still at 90% throttle, so that doesn't make much sense. You also went off and then right back on the throttle, which is going to give you knock almost every time (burst knock)

As for the idle, I see nothing wrong with it... It's a little high. I would try taking it apart and cleaning it... shouldn't take more than half an hour with a rag and some carb cleaner or some such... do you have a throttle body air foil that might be impeding the idle air's progress???

Jonota

ChrisS95TA

Idle stays right around 800 RPMs as an M6 should but it is noticably "shaky"...atleast more shaky than it was when I got the car. My idle also goes from 800-850 up and down and every once in a while hits 875 but never 900 when fully warmed up and sitting at idle.

jonota

So is it only "shaky" when you first start the car up? That could have nothing to do with the computer. Is the car tuned up (ie spark plugs, wires, fuel filter, pcv, etc etc)? I alway start searching with all my problems by checking for vacuum leaks, then checking fuel pressure and doing a leak down test, then checking spark, then analyzing my computers logs...

Jonota

ChrisS95TA

Sorry for not providing maintenance info. Recently had the opti, plugs, wires, fuel filter done. Car runs very strong, all the way up the 5800 RPMs I did today and chirped the wheels into second....havent had the car running that well in 50k miles. Anyway the shaky idle is actually MORE noticable once I hit closed loop. I can watch the scanner and as soon as it hits closed loop the idle gets a little shaky. I am cleaning the TB and changing out the IAC soon, at 97k miles I bet they are dirty as crap. My throttle is also very hard to move manually when closed then once I move it it's fairly smooth....I think cleaning the blades when I clean the TB will help that.

Thanks for the tips I appreciate it.

Hmm, DFCO = Decel fuel cut off, so basically it cuts off fuel and/or timing when it detects deceleration?

jonota

Yes, it's another ingenious gas-saving device... it actually caused some minor problems in my car since the settings between the manual and the auto are different, it was making my car almost stall anytime I put the clutch in....

Have you checked all of your mounts? Maybe you have a busted or loose mount somewhere that is just giving you a lot of vibration making you "think" it's "shaky"???

Also, have you ported/descreened your MAF? How's your gas mileage?

Jonota

ChrisS95TA

MAF is stock with screen recently cleaned. I did not check all of the mounts, I am going to get under the car tomorrow and visually check them to see. I do have 1LE transmission mount so that is probably what I feel in the stick. We will see, thanks for the tips again.

Last few tanks mileage was about 14-16 MPG all driving around town almost never hitting even 50 MPH so I guess that is pretty good.

jonota

14-16 sounds low to me unless you're getting on it ALL the time. I got better than that with my car running rich as hell... but then again I have 3.23s...

Let us know what else you find.

Jonota

ChrisS95TA

Really think it is that low? I never get into 6th, stop and go driving up to 25 and back down all day is pretty much what I do to go to work and school which are both close to my apartment.

The highway is a different story, I bet I get 25-30 MPG in 6th gear at 60+ MPH

jonota

Yeah I would say that is fairly low... but then again there are a lot of variables... I know I am not happy with my previous 16s....and I know that I was running rich.. but I haven't gotten any new data.

Jonota

ChrisS95TA

Do you think changing out my coil may help in the fuel mileage department? I have had a hypertech coil on the car for about 60k+ miles that replaced the stocker. I bought an MSD coil at a swap meet for 20 bucks brand new over a year ago but read people have had trouble so I never installed it. Maybe I should go ahead and try it, could always go back to the hypertech which I know works, or atleast works somewhat right now.