Im starting to tune with my new wideband and tunerCat. I have taken a tuner PCMforless that has done for me and just did little change with it, nothing crazy. I was doing some 1/4 mile pulls with the car and got to see that at 5200 RPm the car leans out to about 13.2 then as rpm reach red line we sit about 13.6. not where i like to see A/f. I have tryed giving some fuel in the RPM VS WOT table at the correct RPM didnt seem to help but i only gave about 10%. so the question i have is should i keep giving fuel in that table or try to go to i different table to see if i can get anywhere?

THe car is 94 z28 355 11 to 1 CR cc305 mild port factory heads full bolt ons. thank you for your the inputs!

 

What is your fuel pressure is it falling at high rpm? what is your injector duty cycle?

 

Fuel Pressure is 40 idle and vac hose off reg. is 46. Duty cycle not sure last time i checked 67 ish.

 

Did you try to adjust the MAF tables at the airflow rate (grams per second) that match with that RPM and above. You adjust the airflow vs frequency so that you trick the MAF into thinking there is more air going in than there really is which should richen the mixture a little bit, make sure you make small changes though.

 

The MAF table is not the way to tune WOT.

You want to use the RPM pe table. If 10% didn't change it, then increase it a little more. Also you want curve to be relatively consistent, so add some more to the values surrounding that rpm as well.

 

1) Saying 13.6AFR at redline is like saying Im seeing lean AFR at WOT
Please say you see 13.6 AFR at what RPM range, stock is 5500rpm, modified is 6000-7000rpm+. Best would be something like "I drops from 13.3 to 13.6 from 5000-6000RPM"

2) Increasing PE vs RPM, you should start with less than 80% Injector Duty Cycle in the area your lean and add to increase Injector % Duty Cycle (by adding to PE vs RPM) and you should see direct comparison between AFR and % Duty Cycle... if not then I would check Fuel pressure. Keep in mind if you begin missfiring then this will show up as LEAN. VERY MISSLEADING HERE! Could simply be a Opti Spark doing it's thing (AKA crapping out - falling apart due to loose rotor screws, trapped moisture, rusted 360d opti wheel, you drive thru a puddle or dog pee'd on tire and moisure worked it's way up to distributor cap and fogged it up, general POS, started it on a warm day following a cold day, etc. But still.. once working as new it gives the most accurate timing signal ever.. MOST ACCURURATE TIMING SIGNAL EVER!!! Even with it's driven off a 4:1 ratio cam chain with slop built in to the design... DUH

3) If this all fails, go to SD mode and repeat. I really love SD mode.

4) Buy a procharger D-1SC, a Walbro GSS340 fuel pump and install a 2 bar MAP + my file + Siemins 82lb injectors with AEM driver and run up to 8psi with 0 problems that I + others can see which is SD mode and deletes the MAF.. (I was a MAF liker now after tuning a little without it I'm a MAF hater).

Check #4 is only to prove out a bunch of things such as limitations to the program, PCM, Ignition, Fuel rails, regulator