http://www.fruitiondayspa.ca/toby/log.zip

Have a look at my logs, this was just easy driving around the neighborhood to work.

all cells that work under 700 RPM had zero use in that short trip.
Here is my question: For a basically stock bolton car, WITH a new higher stalled convert, should I increase my boundaries, a few 100 rpm?

(I'm having trouble passing the local smog test here....)

 

I'm at work and I can't see the log, but I would ask yourself the obvious question of why it is running so rich? You shouldn't have to fool with the boundaries. If the car is getting out of the 120-135 range, then something else may be wrong. Did your fuel trims just start doing this? Did they start after a certain mod? Have you have the car tuned for the 30# injectors?

 

I think were thinking about different boundaries
You're referring to the BLM value limit boundaries (mine hang around 128 +/-5 or so). I'm actually referring to the boundaries that define what cell your in... my stock boundares are:



I noticed cells 0,4,8,12 are NEVER or at the least very very rarely touched. I think it has something to do with the looser converter. Has anyone noticed anything like this going to a higher stall?

I was thinking of changing it to something like 0-1000/1000-1500/1500-2400/2400+ or maybe 0-1000/1000-1400/1400-2100/2100+

 

Yes, we were talking about different boundaries. I didn't think about the cell boundaries. You could give it a try. I take it you're wanting to do this because it would be easier to do tuning in specific spots? The car shouldn't spend much time, if any, in those cells (stock table), loose converter or not.

If you change the tables to one of the two options you have listed, the computer will be switching back and forth constantly while you're cruising. I think that is why the stock boundaries are the way they are.

 

Hmm I see what your saying. I was kinda thinking that it might be a good thing for daily driving to be divided between more cells rather than less since the BLM would be more accurate...

I actually very very very rarely go into those cells, and usually for not more than a second or so before im out.

The main reason i started looking at this was because of emissions actually. Just having a bit of an issue passing at the moment(the problem lies elsewhere but I thought this might help)

 

It could be worth a try, if you can find a set of numbers that won't cause a lot of switching. Maybe 0-1200, 1200-1700, 1700-2200, 2200+. I don't know if this would help or not.

I would agree with this. In closed loop, the car should be running an a/f of 14.7, not matter the cell boundaries. The O2's are accurate enough to correct, and they do it quickly enough to where you shouldn't fail emissions. Have you pulled the plugs to see what they look like?

 

My cars been failing for over a year now, and the last time i checked the plugs was when I did the mac header install 3 months ago.

My plugs looked a bit blacker/dirtier than my friends car but nothing too bad. The color was consistant between all the plugs (no one plug looked oddly different). We put new plugs in as well at th time.

Just so you know I think the BC emissions test is very similar to the Cali test (Im240). They run you on a dyno and basically try and make your car pollute by putting constantly under different loads... Talking with a few mech's here they say the test is pretty nasty and not as easy to pass as older tests

 

We have the same tests in Missouri (around St. Louis). Do you have a wideband setup? If so, I would say that you could run open loop and lean it out some more. If it's running just a little rich in closed loop, then I don't know what could cause it because the O2's should be compensating for it. Especially since your BLM's are 128 +/- 5. I've known guys that have welded multiple cats inline and got cars to pass. One guy that had an LS1 with a supercharger and a big *** cam did this and passed. It's worth a try if you've tried everything else. Do you still have the EGR? Is it working properly? The AIR would have helped too.

 

Yea i'm baffled as well - stock cam!! EGR is still on (and isn't stuck open), AIR is deleted, but my understanding was that it really doesn't help with the test since AIR is only active during the first few minutes of warmup to help heat the CAT up. I did a few good runs on the highway before the test to make sure she was warm.

I'm leaning towards a misfire or something. Heck the cat is almost new too (stock GM cat replaced a year ago)!