jmarkum

Hey just scanned car and im get 8 codes on my 94 z28 i have no cel thats whats got me the codes are 42 ,43,44,45,51,52,53,54,55 is therd something wrong with pcm r what i no my cel works its came on for a tps sensor code before so if any one can help id be grearful thanks

bobdec

Something is messed up, if those codes are real you car would be dead, or limping along at best. Reset your PCM by pulling negative battery terminal for about 3-5 mins and try scanning again. If you still get those codes I would verify the scanner is set up correctly. Maybe incorrect car/model setup. Bad PCM in these cars is a rare event... 51 says your PCM code is messed up, 53 says PCM voltage is greater than 17 volts, others are KS, O2's , Ignition related. If car is running, those DTC's look invalid..

jmarkum

Car is running no cel i think its somthing to do with pcm was from 94 firebird and mine is 94 camaro and pcmforless tuned it for me i hope pcm isnt bad hopefully not the scanner was called innovna i think i spelled that right i dont no i no its some funny name like that done pulled fuse and disconnected battery all night just to see codes still there they wont erase so i have no clue the high volt i no is wrong cause i check volts at alt. And batt. Im lost here keep info coming

bobdec

First off '95 and '95 Z28 and FB PCM's are the same part number, the code is a little different between years. That's should not be your problem. Can you provide the Innova model number so we can look it up. The '94 and '95 GM LT1 engine OBD1 PCM's were one off, flash in the pan for those two years.. Not all scanners work on them. Need model of scanner to look at the users manual, if it's on line. By the way no need for overnight to reset PCM, a few mins is sufficient..

jmarkum

It was my buddy's scanner so ill get in touch with him i no it was obd1 and obd2 scanner and it does live data on obd2 pcm but soon as i find out part # i will post it thanks for all ur help this has been worrying me to death not knowing if codes are real are false but like u said with all them codes my car wouldnt be running r if it was running really bad the only thing im having problem with on my car is when i first crank it it idle surges until it warms up and it runs rich i mean i think its rich i can smel gas real bad at idle but other than that it runs to tell u a little bout car i just bought it the guy showed me all paper work on car everything that he had done he said he stroked it out with eagle kit lt4 hot cam it has afr 180cc ported heads 30lb accel injectors pacesetter longtubes headers 58mm bbk tb 1.6 crane gold roller rockers comp pro mag push rods dual flow masters 3:42 rear end 700r4 in there now but got t56 six speed fixin to go in only thing that worrys me is how well u can trust people guy i bought car from seemes cool but there's mo way to tell if its really a 383 unless i go in to the motor but any ways sorry to change subject ill post part # thanks

bobdec

Perfect idle and no surge on that setup can be achieved, but requires some tuning TLC. You did not mention Cats or no Cats, w/o cats that setup will stink like heck at idle. In less you see black smoke, carboned up plugs or smell raw fuel running rich requires a scanner, scan software or a wideband to verify. By the way click 'user CP' up top, then 'signature' and enter your year, model and mods in your signature. Helps others give better advise.

jmarkum

Yea it smells like fuel i come inside my wife smells it so bad on my shirt and cloths ive had cars without cats my last z28 had no cats didnt smell no where near like this one more thing my gas tank builds up pressure fast i unscrew cap theres alot of pressure bad dont no it thats a return line problem r a evap canister but i got to fix it its not right i have a 255 lph walbro fuel pump dont no what could cause this but keep the info coming thanks for all help

bobdec

This thread is moving off topic... IMHO with your setup scan software is a requirement for your toolbox, for this and future issues. I personally recommend a laptop, ALDL cable, and software. If you have a Windows laptop figure $75 for an ALDL cable and $0-$139 for scanning/data-logging software. Then another $120.0 to load and alter tunes. W/probably well over $2K++ into the build another couple hundred is a relatively low cost investment. As a start I would be verifying the 58mm TB setup, looking at RPM actual (??) & desired (800-900 in tune), TPS voltage .55 to .75, IAC counts 20-50, MAP around 37-45 and LT BLM's 128+/- 5% all readings taken at idle BLM cell 16, w/coolant above 160, engine running over 4 mins. Specifically how far are the LT BLM's off of 128 or 0% depending on the tool display and are they close to being equal +/- 5%, if not equal search on " LT1 split BLM's " and you can see some of the 'possible' 58mm TB idle air issues on modded, high air flow top ends.

moparman

Don't forget the FREE diagnostics at the top of the forum.

jmarkum

Thanks for all replys its gonna be help full im just gonna take it to get tuned at hptuners here in jax. Fl. Ur he will dyno tune car for 400$$$ i called today so thats my next step thank u for all replys been very helpful thanks