I've been using this great software for years but ran into an issue today. When I plug my cable into my laptop, it is recognized like usual and assigned COM3. When I attempt to connect and scan, SYNC lights up red and there is no communication. This has never happened. I'm using a Windows 7 laptop and have tried the latest 2 versions of Scan9495. I verified the tan wire on the ALDL port has 5v and the ground has 0. Here is a picture of my cable and software. I have tried the drivers from the CD and allowed Windows to use its own drivers for the cable.

 

Are you trying to use Scan9495 with the 24x in your signature?

 

No, I retained the stock 12 pin ALDL port which I've still been able to use for ABS and airbag purposes.

 

Let’s ask Gary.

@GaryDoug

 

Do you still have the standard PCM? If not, has this worked before without the pcm?

 

No I don't have the standard PCM anymore. The 12 pin port has still worked fine for scanning the ABS system until now.

 

Make sure you have turned off the engine scan (not green)

 

Yes I clicked the ABS box and unclicked the engine scan box.

 

I don't know what else to say. That app hasn't changed in ages. Possibly a defective cable.

 

Kinda what I was leaning towards but wasn't sure if cables spontaneously fail. Any suggestions on where to get a new one?

 

I hate to advise just getting a new cable in case there is something else wrong. But if 60 bucks is not an issue, that is the way I would go: OBD Diagnostics

Ooops, I just need to ask if that is a USB connection to your pc and not a 9 pin serial. If it is, just go with my recommendation. If not, let's step back a bit.

 

Yes that's a USB connection. Will Scan9495 work with a USB to ALDL cable? Or does it require a USB to serial to ALDL cable?

Yikes this thing is over $80 with shipping. Any other thoughts before I pull the trigger? Is there another piece of software I can try that reads ABS? Or some way to test my current cable?

 

It works either way, but normally you use a single cable (ALDL-to-USB)
Try this utility to test your cable: https://www.mediafire.com/file/1e9jb..._test.exe/file
When you run it, there should be numbers appearing that count up in the text box. If there are, the main part of the cable works but that does not test the car connector.
You can make a cable for about $20 if you are handy with wiring and some soldering or splicing.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/25394011316...Cclp%3A2334524
https://www.ebay.com/itm/16479141676...Cclp%3A2334524

 

I ran your cable testing utility, thank you for that! It showed repeating numbers. Just to see what would happen, I disconnected the serial to ALDL portion of the cable and it still gave me repeating numbers. Then I disconnected the USB to serial adapter box and it couldn't detect the COM port and gave me an error. So this means the "main part" of the cable works but what is the "main part" exactly? Could there still be a malfunction in the cable preventing a connection with the ABS? Maybe in the serial to ALDL portion of the cable since the utility doesn't care whether it's connected or not?

Is there any other way I can test the ALDL port? With key on engine off, data wire is giving 5 volts, ground is 0. That should be all the reassurance I need right?

 

I do not know how your cable is constructed, only what a basic/minimal cable looks like. In the basic cable the TXD and RXD wires from the USB adapter are connected together. That is what the loopback utility tests, that the signal going out (TXD) comes back on the other wire (RXD) as it should. It does not test the actual connection of those joined wires to the ALDL connector pin M. Nor does it test the connection of the black ground wires between the USB converter and the ALDL connector pin A.