Tried a search for my power lock problems but didn't find anything very useful. When I first got my car the locks worked perfecly fine, then a few months ago they just completely stopped working one day. Then on Wednesday of last week I washed my car and was armoralling the interior and started rubbing the lock switch with my cloth and they started working(which scared the crap out of me cuz the garage was dead silent). I tried them again not even five minutes later and they didn't work. Tried maybe half an hour after that..worked perfectly fine. Worked intermittently for a few days and then drove the car to work and haven't got them to work since.

Car is a 95. Has power locks and that's it.

 

This may help, ref shoebox ' http://shbox.com/1/pwr_dr_lock_schematic.jpg ' The way it's set up problem could be on either side. Voltage feeds left switch (orange wire) from fuse 7 and ground feeds right switch (black wire). Either switch having a bad normally closed (NC) contact could cause failure. I suggest re-seating connectors on both switches a few times , looking for frayed or abnormal wires. Put a meter + on orange and - on black, start wiggling wires and make sure +12/gnd is constant. Could also be open gray or tan wire leaving left switch going to both motors before they split. If you're good w/schematics you can check out the switches with a VOM or continuity tester with power off and switches disconnected. Good luck. Bob D.

 

I'm not familiar with power options at all and am not quite sure what you mean by NC or re-seating the connections. I've tried wiggling wires around a lot and didn't have much luck...but one time the driver side wouldn't work so I hit the passenger side one and they did work. Do you think it might be a connection on the passenger side????

 

I went to advanced auto to get a multimeter to test the circuits and what not and made a nice discovory. When the locks arent working the fuse for them doesn't have power either....so that rules out the posibility of the switches being bad. So where do I go from here guys cuz i'm not to sure what to do. The wiring on this car is a mess. Whoever installed the remote keyless entry and start needs to not do another car ever again. If this helps at all the brake lights also went out too. And along with them at the exact same time the radio. The domelights and mirror lights don't work either...along with the door ding. And I also can't forget about the hatch release. DAMN there is a lot of wiring messed up on my car.

 

This is getting complicated.. The door locks, mirror and hatch lock are off fuse 7 and Radio from Fuse 17 they both get power from two places 1 -normally from the IGN key BROWN wire but are also 2-spliced to the Retained Acessory Power unit (RAP) when the key is turned off and prior to opening the doors. (keeps the radio on till you open the door). The IGN and RAP are feed by fusable link 'E' under the hood. Problem is the brake lites are on fuse 6 and dome lites are on fuse 8 they are always hot and are fed directly by a fusible link 'F' under the hood. The only thing common to everything could be loose or corroded +12v distribution or ground distribution studs on the pass fender well. This is also where the fusible links (thick grey wires) are located. Make sure both 12v and ground studs are clean and tight. You may have multiple different problems and will need to fix one at a time. Your going to need some good wire schematics to fix this one..all I have is a Hayes and it does not show detailed physical locations of connections or grounds.

 

I was trying to check the wires under the hood, but the only say fusible link and they don't have a letter after them.

 

Yep.. I should have said that, there are 3 gray and 4 yellow fusible links. The letter designation on the schematics is probaly just to let ya know they are on different fusible links. You can't identify then specifically as there are no labels on the wires and they are all the same color. Hate to say, metering them out would be the only way. Thing is, if a link was melted it would be a solid failure unless it's a bad crimp ??

 

Well I took of the piece right under the steering column to access all of the wires to try to figure things out. Didn't figure much out but my power locks seem to be working fine again. They havent let me down since Tuesday night sooooooooooo I don't know what the deal is.

 

Well I've got to say i've got a weird car. So about 20 mins ago I went to Caseys to get the sunday paper came back and shut the car off with the lights on and the dinger WORKED. OMG. IT F-IN WORKED. HOLY SH*T
Anyways so it dings with the key in the off positin and on accesory but not on on. Is this normal??? Stops dinging when I open either door is this normal????
Thanks a bunch guys.