I have a quick question about LT1 edit and idle conditions. When the car start up and just idle's it is almost to bad to be in the garage with it after a couple minutes. I'm not completely sure it isn't just the cam and the way the overlap is but it would seem that it would be possible to lean it out a bit. Only other weird thing is that most of the time the BLM's at idle are at full 160.

thoughts?

 

If you're sure that you aren't getting those high blm's due to a mechanical problem (vacuum leak) then you can adjust the maf tables to try and bring the blm's back to a point where the PCM can adjust.

 

It sounds like your open loop table may not have been modified.

Try leaning that table out (especially in the lower coolant temp areas) and see if it helps the early morning starts.

 

The car doesn't really pull to much vac. due to the size of the cam but there isn't a vac. leak of any sort that I have seen.

I'll see if I can't play around with the MAF table's a little bit down low and see what happens.

 

How much cam are we talking?
Unless it's a real large solid roller there is no reason that you shouldn't have adequate vacuum at idle?

 

Well its not huge or anything.

244/257 .611/.609 on a 114 I believe

It pulls about 10-12" at idle...depending on what kind of mood its in at the time. Around 15" cruisin.

 

OK....that's more cam than I was thinking.
Have you had this thing on the dyno yet?
What kind of power did it make?

 

Well here is a little post about it
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...hreadid=166552

She did 567/576 around 4800rpm on a mustang dyno with the knock retard pullin 12 degrees (false) on pump gas.

Its in the process of getting a cell, -8 feed lines, twin really big pumps, a low imp. driver box, and 86 or 96lb injectors....so yeah its still got a **** ton more in it.

 

How is your MAF sensor ?
Stock ? screen still on ?

I have a 260/260 @.050 Solid roller in my LT1, it used to idle real rich until I put the stock MAF ends back on. Im even thinking of puting the screen back on.

 

Assuming it is not a mechanical problem you could set your TPS to enable WOT to 0% for your 0-1600 cells. Your car will now ignore the O2's for 0-1600rpm. Additionally you can tune your idle a/f ratio via the pe vs rpm table for 0-1600 rpm.

Chris

 

Stock sensor, no screen.

I'm 98.99% sure there is nothing mech. wrong with the car. I am going to go over it all this winter and double check everything since it has been apart and together so much over the last couple years.

In all honesty I think its always going to sink a little at idle but I don't know why the BLMs would be like that. I gotta get it on a dyno after the new fuel system and finish tuning it then I'll just see if I can't get someone thats been around them a lot to do all the part throttle and driveablity stuff as well. So far she's doing pretty good.