cant get it right. anybody have some good programs or good advice? 1.6 and LT car
cant get it right. anybody have some good programs or good advice? 1.6 and LT car
Been trying to tune my my car to perfection, but its always some thing
One program i tried definatly made a substancial power diference, but also got bad gas milage, and left a TON of crap all over the baack of my car. this one had lots of PE changes, and wha i woulkd call extreme MAF changes...i messed with at a while to lean it out or do something to make it burn all the fuel it was puting in there... but to no change
Most others i have tried just runn crappy...loud idle, and have smooth or jerky parts, and to rich, or seem very rough at WOT... i dont know, i got a stock program on now. just hoping there were some people who could give me some advice of what i should try doing to get to most power and MPg out of it. or if you have a good solid baseling program to start from or learn from.
and as a PS...anybody run Pcmforless prgramming? how is it?
One program i tried definatly made a substancial power diference, but also got bad gas milage, and left a TON of crap all over the baack of my car. this one had lots of PE changes, and wha i woulkd call extreme MAF changes...i messed with at a while to lean it out or do something to make it burn all the fuel it was puting in there... but to no change
Most others i have tried just runn crappy...loud idle, and have smooth or jerky parts, and to rich, or seem very rough at WOT... i dont know, i got a stock program on now. just hoping there were some people who could give me some advice of what i should try doing to get to most power and MPg out of it. or if you have a good solid baseling program to start from or learn from.
and as a PS...anybody run Pcmforless prgramming? how is it?
My advice would be to get a stock M6 program and do very litte with it.
MAF tables should not be messed with unless you've screwed with the sensor itself.
PE stuff shouldn't really be messed with either unless you have access to a wideband.
Timing and injector constant are all I would play with. Use the injector constant to lean the car out a little bit at all rpm's. I think I've changed mine to about 25.6 and haven't really messed with any of the part throttle timing. Just the 90-100 map stuff. My car didn't like all the timing in the factory program. It was pulling out almost 10 degrees at 3500rpm. I think I'm down to about 30-32 degrees with no change in knock count.
If you want a base (stock) program to use and want to see what I did, I will e-mail you both of my programs.
And...pcmforless programming is very good. Well worth $75 or whatever it is with unlimited updates. Then you still have the ability to adjust that program yourself to tailor it to your car.
MAF tables should not be messed with unless you've screwed with the sensor itself.
PE stuff shouldn't really be messed with either unless you have access to a wideband.
Timing and injector constant are all I would play with. Use the injector constant to lean the car out a little bit at all rpm's. I think I've changed mine to about 25.6 and haven't really messed with any of the part throttle timing. Just the 90-100 map stuff. My car didn't like all the timing in the factory program. It was pulling out almost 10 degrees at 3500rpm. I think I'm down to about 30-32 degrees with no change in knock count.
If you want a base (stock) program to use and want to see what I did, I will e-mail you both of my programs.
And...pcmforless programming is very good. Well worth $75 or whatever it is with unlimited updates. Then you still have the ability to adjust that program yourself to tailor it to your car.
Originally posted by Dan K
My advice would be to get a stock M6 program and do very litte with it.
MAF tables should not be messed with unless you've screwed with the sensor itself.
PE stuff shouldn't really be messed with either unless you have access to a wideband.
Timing and injector constant are all I would play with. Use the injector constant to lean the car out a little bit at all rpm's. I think I've changed mine to about 25.6 and haven't really messed with any of the part throttle timing. Just the 90-100 map stuff. My car didn't like all the timing in the factory program. It was pulling out almost 10 degrees at 3500rpm. I think I'm down to about 30-32 degrees with no change in knock count.
If you want a base (stock) program to use and want to see what I did, I will e-mail you both of my programs.
And...pcmforless programming is very good. Well worth $75 or whatever it is with unlimited updates. Then you still have the ability to adjust that program yourself to tailor it to your car.
My advice would be to get a stock M6 program and do very litte with it.
MAF tables should not be messed with unless you've screwed with the sensor itself.
PE stuff shouldn't really be messed with either unless you have access to a wideband.
Timing and injector constant are all I would play with. Use the injector constant to lean the car out a little bit at all rpm's. I think I've changed mine to about 25.6 and haven't really messed with any of the part throttle timing. Just the 90-100 map stuff. My car didn't like all the timing in the factory program. It was pulling out almost 10 degrees at 3500rpm. I think I'm down to about 30-32 degrees with no change in knock count.
If you want a base (stock) program to use and want to see what I did, I will e-mail you both of my programs.
And...pcmforless programming is very good. Well worth $75 or whatever it is with unlimited updates. Then you still have the ability to adjust that program yourself to tailor it to your car.
does anyone happend to have a pcm4less program? my friend used to run one and he picked up 2 10ths in the 1/4 with it
I'll send them to you. If you have any questions about them let me know.
What I have found with the injector constant is this: If I can get the blms close to 128 (preferably under) than the car runs A LOT better at part throttle. Works the same way on my car as it does on a friends 93. Also the transition to WOT is much better.
As far as the blms popping up to 160...you'd have to make one hell of a change for that to happen. You just want the computer to think the injectors are just a little bit bigger than what they are.
A blm lock only applies to cell 15 and is used to keep the same fuel curve under WOT.
What I have found with the injector constant is this: If I can get the blms close to 128 (preferably under) than the car runs A LOT better at part throttle. Works the same way on my car as it does on a friends 93. Also the transition to WOT is much better.
As far as the blms popping up to 160...you'd have to make one hell of a change for that to happen. You just want the computer to think the injectors are just a little bit bigger than what they are.
A blm lock only applies to cell 15 and is used to keep the same fuel curve under WOT.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
oldschool
Parts For Sale
16
Feb 9, 2016 09:21 PM
PFYC
Supporting Vendor Group Purchases and Sales
0
Dec 23, 2014 07:52 AM



