My question is WIll if at all this car run with a 383 and 270* comp cam run, it is a TPI running the stock torque converter. I know it will need to be dyno tuned that is already planned out, but the question is will the car be driveable to a shop that can tune it for me?

 

running the 730 or 727 ecm? You might look here http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/LT1Edit/LT1files.htm. You could take the VE from the closest 93 combo to use for your TPI tune if your are running the SD TPI ecm.

 

oh sorry, it is a mas airflow car - i was hoping because of that it will be able to adjust and compensate somewhat for the mods, it just needs to be driveable to the shop, i don't want to have to tow it lol

 

Its hard to say. It might run OK in closed loop, but the engine has to warm up enough to get there. In open loop, it's using the tables in the ECM which are most certainly going to be incorrect for your setup. They *better* be, right? You want your car to be better then stock. ;-)

You could mail-order a chip for it, burned to your specs that would be close enough, then have the dyno shop dial it for you. The question becomes what is cheaper: a tow, or a custom chip? ;-) Or, maybe the dyno shop that's going to dial it in for you could burn the chip with the tables that Paul94Z mentioned above.

This is the chicken-in-the-egg problem. You need a good tune to get your custom setup to run right, but you need to drive to the place to get the tune. ;-)

 

I suggest ditching the MAF ecm and getting a 727 SD ecm, can get them from early 90's v6 cars as well

 

well the thing runs, very well - minus a puff from the drivers side tailpipe (presumably a missfire) Injector issue? it is a scat rotating assembley, 270/278 .515/.530 lift voodoo cam, with heddman headers, open element intake, and true duals. unfortunetly it runs rough at idle and stalls when stopping at a light ocasionaly....and has just about spit out the 700r4 (2-4 clutch band is failing, loud hissing metallic noise under heavy acceleration)