Hey, my engine is going to be done soon, and I'm not sure about tuning.

Do I need to change anything befor I start it up? Or will the stock tune work until I get it dyno tyuned? Should I pull some timing? I have TunerCat, but haven't played too much with it. I've pulled a bit of timing and changed the shift points.

What all is needed to run safely. Can I drive it for a while before I get a dyno tune?

Here is my setup:
383 LT1, fully forged lightweight internals
Cam: 220/224 with around 560-570 lift and LSA 114
running 5-15 psi of boost

Another question, I will be funning 5 psi most of the time, but when I pull up next to a "fast" car, or am at the track, I will flip the switch and run up to 15 psi. Do I have to have a different tune for the higher boost, or is there a tune I can have to accomidate for both?

Thanks for any help!

 

Is that on stock injectors or not? I hope not.

I would recommend an MSD Digital 6 box with that setup so that it can handle your timing retard or else you will not be able to accomodate the different setups (5# and 15#) on the same tune. You can get your car dyno tuned for 15# and then you can run the car with 5#s on the same tune, but if you retard the timing through the PCM for 15#s, then your car will probably run weaker with 5#s then without any boost at all. So you definetely need a boost retard box with that setup.

There is also the problem with air fuel ratio. It will be different for those 2 boost levels and without changing the tunes each time, your only option will be to dyno tune it for 15# of boost and then run it with 5# on the same tune, which will probably be way too rich and again, you will lose power.

So without an aftermarket engine management unit, you have to take those things in consideration, or you will need to dyno tune it for both boost levels, then switch between the programs by means of uploading through a laptop. It will not be an instant switch since it takes about 5 minutes to upload a tune and there is also the possibility of frying your PCM during upload which will leave you stranded in the middle of the road.

Just a couple of things to think about I guess.

PS. It may be easier to just stick to a certain boost level.

 

here is what I do....

get a methanol system...

tune ur car for 5psi...

and then switch the flip to 15psi setting... and then engage the methanol...

now tune the methanol (not the PCM) so that it compansates for the extra air...

the methanol will also cool teh IATs, raise the octane, and supply extra fuel...

thats what i do... 3psi on normal driving, and 11psi with methanol....

car is tuned to run on 3psi, and the methanol makes up for the extra needed fuel... (obviously u have to adjust the amount of methanol so that ur a/f is perfect with the extra methanol fuel and higher boost)

 

Cool, thanks for the input guys, yeah I forgot to menton, I am getting methanol injection to run durring the switched on boost. So with that, I wouldn't need two tunes? Cool, any extra info would be great.

How about the 383 part of it, will the stock tune do fine (run safely) with the extra cubes? What should I change to accomidate, or help the comp realize that the engine is bigger?

 

Sounds as if SEVERAL variables have been changed from what pcm has been previously monitored. My suggestion would be to NOT start/run initially with the turbo functioning. Break in your engine correctly, first and foremost, without any other 'distractions', THEN deal with turbo specific pcm tuning. Frankly, I would have done whatever pcm changes, that would have been necessary, for the engine to function NA, BEFORE original engine was pulled, to prep for initial engine operation. Initial engine operation is critical, no time to screw it up, nor do you have a way to undo what may transpire.

 

at 15psi you are going to be well outside the limits of the MAF, so tune accordingly. Assuming the STS kit will make anywhere near what traditional kit will, you will also be outside the range for high impedence injectors. a converter and larger injectors will be needed

 

A local guy here make 14psi on the street, but only sees 10psi on the dyno. Remember that when you dyno tune. Expect more boost on the street.

 

Why is that? I've never seen anything like that. Pretty sure my GN makes the same boost on the dyno that it's set up for on the street.

 

I think its quite common for guys that dyno on a dynojet. I have seen ahandful of front mount turbo guys say they make 1-2psi less on the dyno then the street. The rear mount kit dropped ~4 psi. I believe it has to do with the dynojet not being able to load the car fully. I havent heard any problems with a mustang dyno due to its loading capability?? I just wanted to mention it so he knows to keep if fat and keep the timing down some until he can verify what he sees on the dyno and the street (#'s of boost).

 

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