Can you list the exact name of the tables your mentioning?

Are you using Tunercat with $DA2 definition or something?

Every time I've asked both Tunercats and LT1_Edit they say they reviewed the code and found nothing related to accel pump shot. I know it has to be there somewhere.

 

I've banged my head against the wall on this too. I guess they got rid of it all when they converted to MAF.

 

Yup, I think I still have a scar. Actually I remember the moment I band-aid fixed the lean tip in by saying hell with calculation and lowered the injector size even more than it was, then it was gone... I was screaming HELL YEA

I was in the Continential parking lot in Auburn Hills Feb 9th, 2008 around 9:03pm. It was dark, I was wearing sunglasses, and I had this huge speaker mounted to the roof.

 

Yep - its Tunercat with $DA2 (1992 Y-Body). The tables are:

Accel Enrich vs Differential TPS
Accel Enrich vs Coolant temp
Accel Enrich delta TPS vs Async pulse
Accel Enrich delta MAP PW Multiplier vs Delta MAP
Accel Enrich delta MAP PW Multiplier vs coolant temp
Accel Enrich delta MAP PW decay factor vs coolant
Accel Enrich delta MAP enable threshold vs TPS

I have played with the AE vs Coolant temp table - it seems to work in the same way as a global pump shot factor (actually very similar I think to your technique of lowering the injector constant and leaning out VE).

I dont understand it all, but there is a write up here:

AE Tables

 

 

EDIT i have downloaded the CS version and can see baro reset now.
Im kinda scared tryin to tune this 2 bar stuff by myself, i keep thinking im gonna miss something and mess my car up lol.

Can anyone help me with a base tune?

I am starting from scratch on a 2 bar for my 383 230/236 cam 60# injectors 8-10PSI.

Also I can get VE master to work on my desktop but my laptop no go...its an old POS that i use for tuning only bc it has a serial port. It has windows 2000 and VE is suppose to work on it. But it gives me a .dll missing




Jay

 

Well I finally got around to putting the 2bar map on and getting the tune close enough to start. I have 42 lb injectors and scaled them down to 21lb. And had to add some to the ve after halfing them. But it did start ,but wouldnt rev up,still too lean.But unfortunately my computer took a dump and wont communicate now and runs the fans on high and constantly cycles the underhood relays.I accidently opened up Datamaster logging program while tunercat was proramming and think maybe that had something to do with it.Maybe overloaded it? IDK..But as soon as i can find another obd1 pcm then i can get this thing running.Cant wait!

 

Step 1: Done (getting it to startup after installing a 2 bar)
Step 2: Not frying PCM. Dont open other programs especially those that access the com port! haha. I closed the "Program" once in the middle of flashing... yea that PCM is sitting on my computer bench with a fully re-programmed chip waiting to be re-attached to the board (fun part is over... rest is just soldering... dumb).

Step 3: Start it up in closed loop and VE master it until it's perfect. IF you have lean tip in stumble that just doesnt go away then lower injector constant more... enjoy the ride!!

BTW, it seems the VE tables are somewhat linear as they build boost... not totally, but somewhat.

 

Lol well man i followed in your shoes..I fried my pcm when i opened my datamaster program on accident. really sucked ***** cuz i just got to the point when i had it idling great . but got another one local.I lowered the injector constant down to 12ish and got it where it idles great,much better than with the maf closed loop setup,and is way rich when revved up. I drove it to work today so i lowered the ve where it needed and will see how it likes it on the way home. Cant wait till i can get in back in boost.Your file is a huge help.I did notice your IAC tables are allot different than mine. Is that beacause of a cam?Just curious. But anyways I am still getting a stumble if i aggressively give it throttle. VE still off im guessing.

 

I fixed the lean stumble when jumping on the gas at low rpms..just added some fuel in the first two columns where it stumbled and its gone...now all i got to do is figure out whats going on with my knock sensor that is maxxed out ,but getting no knock, and then i can start fine tuning under boost yippeee!!

 

Glad to hear you got it running!

I would really run it using VE Master at least a couple times that will straighten out I'd say 60% of the tables, the other 30% are probably the lower and uppper 15% which VE master never really see's (under 800rpm and in PE mode).

I never had a problem with the knock sensor but my car is originally OBDII with the OBDI PCM + resistor inside the PCM.. not sure if that desensitizes things... in reality it should... maybe that's why I dont get "false" knock? like alot of people do with my setup??? I seriously dont get any "false" knock EVER... (knock on wood).

Anybody ever look into this?

 

I plan to run it through VE master after i figure out whats going on with my right o2 sensor. I either have a small exhaust leak that isnt very audible or its just the dam sensor. Its way higher than the right side and i know having a big split will screw with the vemaster's tuning. What esistor are you running and what for? I thought going obd2 to obd1 was just the pcm and connectors?

 

Mine has been running great lately and I'm just about to go back to running E-85 But before I do I have one issue that I need to fix. I start the car cold and it's flawless....Runs perfect....Air/Fuel perfect all the way through boost. It's good while cold and it's good while hot. THEN I shut the car off, go have some dinner and come outside and fire it up and now it's running 1 point leaner than it did when I shut it off. If I run the car for 15 minutes things slowly get back to normal and it's running perfect again.

Any ideas?

 

VE master ignores the split simply because there's no VE tables for left and right, just one number. Lterms and Sterms adjust all that but they are reset at power loss or programming anyway.

VE Master is good for getting you very close if your far off from where it needs to be to run anywhere decent, then you fine tune manuall if you still need too.

OBDII to OBD1 involves either an OBDI knock sensor or adding a resistor across the OBDII signal wires to bring it's resistance down since OBDI is lower than OBDII (simply brings the resistance of the sensor to what OBDI thinks it should be to keep a trouble code from forming). I think what is also could do is desensitize the knock signal a bit. No connectors needing changed anywhere.

 

Hmm, by one point where do you mean, normal driving? PE mode, everything? I wonder if the IAT sensor is heat soaked or something else heat soaked causing the slight difference.

In newer versions of Tunercat there are settings for that but I cant imagine they run out for 15 minutes, unless it has something to do with emissions like trying the get the cats up the temp faster or something.