1quick7

Hey, i posted a couple weeks ago about getting a 1st gen for a daily driver and appreciate you all's input. I've found another car that is about what i'm looking for, just wondering what you guys thought of the price and what questions i might want to ask?

http://www.msnusers.com/1967RedCamar...rossclone.msnw

http://www.camaros.net/cgi-bin/cyber...hoto_size=full

Thanks!

-Rob

StoveBolt

well the red is my favorite.. sure is a good look'n car but i would have to crawl under it for an opinion on what it is worth .. i always like to see in the discription something like "no rust ever" and that it came from a rust free state (of course KY isn't bad if thats where it is from) .. or a 36,000 mile car ..instead of "NICE old car for the MONEY"

1quick7

Thanks for the response
I guess one of the things i liked was that it had 12 bolt, disc brakes and PS, how expensive is it to convert to disc brakes and power steering? how much value does that add? How about flowmasters? I don't really know how much these types of things cost and therefore have a hard time gauging what a fair price would be.

Obviously i'll take a look in, underneath and around the car in person before buying and i know its hard to put a price tag on a car not knowing its history or what kind of shape its in. Like would it be a good price if there was no rust on the car, no signs of bondo and the paint was in good shape?

THanks for any info.

firstgen

I don't know about you, but making it a daily driver vs a weekend driver will take it's toll on it. Not to mention you don't have the handling of a newer vehicle and the comforts as well. If you're buying this just to go cruising around at night it'd be perfect, but for a work vehicle and going to the store, it's gonna get messed up pretty fast.

I could be wrong, but I seen many of these cars that become daily drivers that get trashed fast and then people are out 10k plus.

StoveBolt

wonder why his 69 is more money .. i'd much rather have a 67 .. as far as the price it don't take long to get 14,000 in a car these days .. i have a plain jane 77 nova (the one no one wants) that i have 14,000 into .. but i started with a 35,000 mile car no rust ever .. that rides looks and drives like new .. verses a 200,000+ mile car with new floor boards welded in and bondo'd up with a slick paint job and everything else worn out .."gota look'em over good" .. (but then i'm from michigan and got this thing about bodys and rust)

http://www.frontiernet.net/~irishhills/novab.jpg

http://www.frontiernet.net/~irishhills/novam.jpg

XcYZ

I don't see a problem with a 1st Gen being a daily driver (if it's setup that way, obviously). It's all in how you maintain it. These cars were daily drivers when they were new, right?

1quick7

Is there any way to check for bondo? I've heard some mention using a body magnet or something like that? Is there anyway to tell just by sight or feel?

quicksilver97ta

I responded and followed your first post and I think you now know (been told anyway ) what your getting into. It sounds like a great car if your prepared to drop that kinda cash. Go for it. Just take care of it, obviously Put it this way, you should always be able to sell it for at least what you paid for it, otherwise obviously, your not taking care of it. Have fun

jg95z28

Well the bumble stripe is wrong but other than that it is a sweet car.

I'd check for the normal rust locations... rear quarter panels behind the tires, bottom of the rear window, and trunk. If there's no signs of rust here, chances are its rust free. (However, even my super clean 67 RS had a little around the rear window and trunk.)

Great color, nice set up. Very close to where my kid's 67 coupe is going to even up, and close to what I'm paying by the time everything is put together. Since its going to be a daily driver, I'd focus more on the mechanical than the cosmetic. Namely engine, tranny, rear, brakes, tires, radiator, etc. If the oil is black, and the radiator fluid brown... chances are it wasn't well maintained and could give you problems at some point. Furthermore, if it doesn't have power steering and power assist front disc brakes, you're going to want to seriously consider making those conversions at some point. Also since its a daily driver, I seriously suggest taking it for a test drive before you close the deal.

Good luck. I spied that car a while ago and would have seriously considered it if it wasn't so far from home, and if I hadn't found the blue coupe.

jg95z28

There are body magnets, and there are also magnetic tools that check paint/filler thickness. Sometimes you can also tell by "tapping". If all of a sudden there is a "dead" spot... that's bondo.

1quick7

i was going to ask that? is it just the wrong color (like was there no red SS with white nose stripe?) or did it not go all the way around like that. It definitely looks wrong with the emblem painted over like it is. What is it supposed to look like for future reference. If this is all explained at camaros.org or camaros.net i apologize....

jg95z28

No problem. I'm not knocking the car... its a great car inspite of the little things that are inaccurate.

Here's a picture of a survivor 67 SS.
http://www.67z28.com/images/Tuxedo/P1002177.jpg
As you can see there are differences on how the bumble bee stripe is applied.

And since we're nit-picking... note the difference on the hood louvers? The ones on the red 67 clone weren't used until 1968 and at first only on the SS-396 cars. Also, the square side mirror is incorrect (67 used round mirrors).

Still its a great looking car, and those are just some minor things you might want to fix if you want it to look more like a "correct" 67 SS clone.

1quick7

Ok, rather than starting another thread, i'll just ask this question in here even though its not really the same topic:

I'm not a huge fan of the wood trim in the interior of these cars. are there any companies that sell a brushed aluminum or just black finish trim pieces to replace the fake wood ones?

Thanks for the info jg95 and others

StorminNorm

Wilwood brakes are probably $2000 alone.

Check eBay and get a catalog or download it from www.classicindustries.com for parts.

One thing I might add being a relative newbie in this is that as you go along, you will find quite obvious things that are not accurate in even the nicest cars. It took 4 months for me to realize my tail light Bezels are from a 67. I replaced the lenses and found out that way. I also found out that the SS side emblems on my car are in the wrong spot.

Take your time - be patient. As said before - build a solid mechanical foundation and worry about the decals and emblems later.

As for daily driver - Mine has been my daily driver since July. 100 miles a day - survived one of the hottest summers with no AC - mine just works poorly and cam is too lopey to keep the car running in stop and go traffic. Lots of folks here get all upset when you drive these things daily. Its your car dude - do what makes you happy. The way I see it, I spent $15000 for a car that looks good, runs well, makes me feel good and will NOT depreciate. Its insured so if its lost or wrecked, I can just get another one.

Tim H

Yes 67s were used as daily drivers and everyone of them turned to junk in a couple of years.
A rock chip here and there,parking lot ding,getting stuff out of the back ETC will take a toll and you will lose money.
The only way to justify driving it everyday is drive it until its a pile of junk and then you got your moneys worth other wise it will lose value.