Classic Engine Tech 1967 - 1981 Engine Related

What rear should i get?

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Old Aug 14, 2003 | 07:45 PM
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What rear should i get?

Will a stock 10 bolt chevy be able to hold 600 hp? If not, what should I get that can? A 12 Bolt?
Old Aug 15, 2003 | 12:06 AM
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If you are looking at ultimate strength a Dana 60 can't be beat. The downside is that it is big and heavy. At 600hp it really depends on how well your car hooks up. If you are running regular street tires that slip a little a properly setup 12 bolt or ford 9 inch will do fine. It becomes a matter of preferance at that point. But if 600 hp is a starting point and you are trying to get to 700-800-900hp then I would stay with my first recommendation, DANA 60.
Old Aug 15, 2003 | 12:15 AM
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ford 9"
Old Aug 15, 2003 | 08:53 AM
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No i'm not planning on going much over 600hp. So the GM 10'' wouldn't work?
Would the GM 12'' be a direct fit requiring no modification? Where as the ford 9 would require some changes correct?

Dana 60 is more than I really need. My car would have street tires, and wouldn't be taken to the track.
Old Aug 15, 2003 | 02:18 PM
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A GM 8.5" 10 bolt can be made to take a LOT of power. You do not need a Dana 60. Years ago, I recall reading in Hot Rod that Dave Henniger ran 1050HP through a beefed 10 bolt, season after season, in his nitroused 406" super street NMCA '71 Camaro. This was at that time, an 8-second car. Dave said he never had a problem, and never blew the diff. I'm running a beefed stock 10 bolt (welded axle tubes, Moser race axles, spool, Richmond 4.10 gears, c-clip eliminators, hardened wheel studs, etc) in my '77 Z/28, and have had zero problems.

Just my .02
Old Aug 15, 2003 | 02:57 PM
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I also concur with Dirt, if you have a 8.5 10 bolt they can be made to handle alot of power. The big issue is how well do you get traction and how heavy is your car? On my car I still have the factory 7.5 10 bolt, and the only reason its still alive is because I have a auto & no traction when I get on it. I am quite sure that If I ever put drag radials on it and it hooked up I would blow it to the next county. Traction, weight, and HP all play into the factor. Also you can start to look at the cost. A lot of times you can find a used 12 bolt that has good internals for a good price, were as with a 10 bolt you usually have to start from scratch.
Old Aug 15, 2003 | 05:36 PM
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what would be a good price for a ford 9, or a gm 12? As opposed to building up the stock 10?
Old Aug 18, 2003 | 12:29 PM
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I have been leaning towards the ford 9". What modifications would i need to make with this, and what would i need to replace in the building process?
Old Aug 18, 2003 | 03:30 PM
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I don't know a whole lot about it, but I imagine that your driveshaft would need to be shortened/lengthened to run a Ford 9". Also, I think you would have to use Ford brakes, but don't quote me on that!
Old Aug 21, 2003 | 12:59 PM
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I have the same setup in my Z28 as Dirt Reynolds does, and I concur, a 8.5 10-bolt will hold up if built right.

I've become a believer in not automatically swapping a 8.5 10 bolt for a 12-bolt or 9 inch Ford (I hate even typing that four letter word), I just wish I could swap a 8.5 10 bolt into my '93 Firebird.
Old Aug 22, 2003 | 12:08 PM
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Originally posted by Dirt Reynolds
A GM 8.5" 10 bolt can be made to take a LOT of power. You do not need a Dana 60. Years ago, I recall reading in Hot Rod that Dave Henniger ran 1050HP through a beefed 10 bolt, season after season, in his nitroused 406" super street NMCA '71 Camaro. This was at that time, an 8-second car. Dave said he never had a problem, and never blew the diff. I'm running a beefed stock 10 bolt (welded axle tubes, Moser race axles, spool, Richmond 4.10 gears, c-clip eliminators, hardened wheel studs, etc) in my '77 Z/28, and have had zero problems.

Just my .02
i know dave and its true. and he says a stock rear is good into the low 10s. and i believe him cuz he dont play games.
Old Aug 23, 2003 | 10:17 AM
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So what things would i need to build on a stock 10 to get it ready to take that kind of power?
Old Aug 23, 2003 | 04:02 PM
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Originally posted by krucib1e
So what things would i need to build on a stock 10 to get it ready to take that kind of power?
Well here's what I have, if that helps:

    The engine previous to the 413 small block in it now, was a 10-second 355 on the bottle(10.77/128), and no problems whatsoever with the diff launching hard with slicks.

    The Buick GN has this same diff. I know GN guys running in the 9.90's with a lot less done to theirs than I have, and the only real problems you might have in stock form, might be a broken axle if you run slicks and a lot of power, or wearing out the posi after many hard launches. At a minimum, I'd suggest Moser axles for insurance. The GM 8.5" 10-bolt is a lot stronger than many seem to realize, even in stock form. This diff should have been used in both the 3rd and 4th gen f-bodies, especially the 4th gens. Why GM did not do this is simply beyond me. Even Ford used the 8.8" diff out of the F-150 truck - and still does - in their V8 Mustangs from 1986 to present.

    Last edited by Dirt Reynolds; Aug 23, 2003 at 04:05 PM.
    Old Aug 24, 2003 | 09:12 PM
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    krucib1e's Avatar
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    Reynolds,
    About how much did rebuilding your 10 cost you?
    Old Aug 24, 2003 | 11:22 PM
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    The 8.5 10 bolt will hold 600 HP pretty easy I have run my 8.5 for years with a nitroused big block with 800+ HP and its holding up ok the 8.5 ring gear is only 7/8" smaller than a 12 bolt I have upgraded to a eaton posi and welded the tubes where they meet the center section , but otherwise its pretty much stock .. as long as you dont SHOCK them they hold up good ..oh I also have aftermarket axles (swap meet ones ) dont know the make ,and clip eliminaters .

    Last edited by BBCAM; Aug 24, 2003 at 11:26 PM.



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