get good valvespring and some lightweight retainers with 10 degree locks. i like the comp beehives. i use the magnum pushrods because they are cheap and lightweight. i also like the comp magnum rockers but that might be a little overkill. the stock rockers should be ok for a budget. try to get light bbcs are heavy on the valvetrain

 

hello again.

My engine is in rebuild now. I discovered that one exhaust valve had a crack on it and i lost one other while rebuilding the engine so thinking in putting 2.19 and 1.88 ones.

What about Summit stainless steel "race valves" ? they are cheap so i would like take them.

Also, i'm wondering if the KB pistons will make need of balancing the engine and if yes how to have it done ?

 

also others questions :

1) valve train : i have taken a complete set from COMP with a 292 cam, springs , lifters, etc but there were no pushrods in. Can i stay with my stock ones ?

2) main bolts : i've seen a post telling main bolts could be a bad issue especially if old engine. Do i have to change them ?

 

What kinda power is the motor gonna make,roughly? If its under 550,I would say the Summit valves are ok but use the factory size.

Changing pistons means changing the weight of the rotating assembly. YES it needs to be rebalnced and a machine shop has to do that on a special balancing machine.

NO you cannot use the stock pushrods. You need hardened chromoly ones...and with those you will need larger pushrod guide plates...dont worry,their cheap.

Main bolts are cheap insurance...prob. dont need to replace them but if you have the extra money to burn,buy some ARP ones.

 

I expect being at this level of power and maybe more so I will take some others valves. what is the problem with having bigger valves ?

About pushrods : what should i take ? i've seen them in 3/8 and 7/16 ? What lenght too ?

Main bolts : i found ARP at summit but it written nowhere if the scraper can be putted in place again with them ? Does this scrapper really important ?

 

In a old engine, it's wise to replace all the bolts including the head bolts.

Even in my engine, I only use 3/8" pushrods but with the .080" wall thickness. As for length, you can gamble with stock length but chances are you'll need to use a length checker and order them in a specific length. Too many factors will determine the proper length.

I don't use a scraper or windage tray in my engine but I do use a deep sump pan and only fill enough oil to fill the sump up to the baffle.

There's usually no issue with using bigger valves after the seats have been cut to use them. A 4-1/4" bore block shouldn't have any wall clearance problems with bigger valves and it depends on the exact piston and cam grind to determine if there will be any piston to valve clearance problems.

 

As long as your running stock style hyd. lifters and the heads havent been milled you can prob. get away with using stock length pushrods.

Nothing wrong w/ bigger than stock valves,I think its just a waste of money unless the motor is going to put out 600+ HP. Get a good valve job done and roll on with it.

 

oky

thanks for these advises .

what is the stock pushrods lenght ?