I Have a TH 350 in my car and I just put in a B&M Holeshot 2400 converter. I'm having problems trying to get it to stall. I've already tried putting weight in the back but that didn't help. With my left foot on the brake, the second I hit the gas it just starts smokin the tires. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks

 

I used to have the Torque Master 2400, and mine was barely noticeable. I could stall it up on launch, but I didn't have a tach at the time so I didn't know how high it was stalling. But under normal driving, it was like I didn't even have a stall at all.

 

So has ANYONE had problems getting their converter to stall besides me? Cause I put the converter in so I could launch harder, but since I installed the converter I can't build any RPM's before I launch. I've been told I might just be over-powering my tires and that's why they start spinning before I can build up RPM's. So if anyone has had similar problems, what did you do to fix it? Thanks

 

If you are trying to figure your stall speed that way, forget it. Using the brakes to hold the car will almost always do what your car is.

I think the only way to correctly do that procedure is with a
line-lock.

The true stall speed has so many factors, including your car's HP, that what actually is stated on the box can be way off.

There are web sites that go into stall info

 

I currently have a 2500rpm stall in my car, and the tires break loose at 2000rpm. Not good. I'm having a custom stall built for my car by a local torque converter company. It might cost a little more, but at least I get a torque converter that works properly with my combo.

 

I have driven a car with a mild 350 and the Holeshot 2400 converter, and quite frankly I thought the converter sucked. Basically stock.

I generally prefer the TCI Streetfighter (~3000 stall) in most street cars. Obviously not for a daily driver, but your weekend warrior cars. If you can, a custom converter would definately be the way to go though.

 

You're gonna need a 10" converter to get what you want. The 2400 stall is typically an 11". When I went from a 11" 2400 to a 10" 3000 I dropped 0.2 in the quarter, but was still very streetable.

 

You get what you pay for! I have the same converter behind GM's 350 HO. I can stall it to 2000 and that's it. It's just a notch over stock. Like has been said, it's barely noticable.

A better quality converter would perform better for you. I know of a guy with a Vigilante 2400. It gives him close to 3000 worth of stall because of the engine it's on. Stalls will change depending on how much torque you put to them. The more torque you put in the more slippage you get and the more stall. This is why some converters say "not for use with big blocks".

Even still you might have experienced a small amount of gain with the B&M unit, but if want more it comes with a steeper price.

Ben T.

 

Call some like Hughes converters tell them what you have. Tell them what you want there recommend what you need. Stall all depends on the torque of your engine. Are you running a small block or big block? that makes a big diffrence.

 

my PI vigilante 2800 stall, will brakestall to 2000rpm thats all and it was custom made to my setup.
to see the true stall you will need a transbrake.
jesse