throwing some ideas around for my next trans for the 67'
07-05-2008, 01:43 PM
#1
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throwing some ideas around for my next trans for the 67'
To keep it simple:
I currently own a 1967 camaro with a 408 stroker producing about 540hp at the flywheel. My TH350 was destroyed and found it's way to the scrap yard. So now i am in search for my next transmission
Basicly here is my situation:
540/550 motor
no rear end (will go with a 12 bolt set up after trans)
subframe connectors and possibly a cage in the future
Street driven but possibly the ocasional visit to the track (10 min from house)
Manual valve body would be nice
Option A: buy TH400 from a performance transmission place
Option B: Buy a junk th400 and have it rebuilt by a performance trans shop
Option C: Junk 4L60E and have it rebuilt (shift kit, solinoids, the whole nine yards)
Option D: Screw Auto, get a T56!
Option E: you tell me
I currently own a 1967 camaro with a 408 stroker producing about 540hp at the flywheel. My TH350 was destroyed and found it's way to the scrap yard. So now i am in search for my next transmission
Basicly here is my situation:
540/550 motor
no rear end (will go with a 12 bolt set up after trans)
subframe connectors and possibly a cage in the future
Street driven but possibly the ocasional visit to the track (10 min from house)
Manual valve body would be nice
Option A: buy TH400 from a performance transmission place
Option B: Buy a junk th400 and have it rebuilt by a performance trans shop
Option C: Junk 4L60E and have it rebuilt (shift kit, solinoids, the whole nine yards)
Option D: Screw Auto, get a T56!
Option E: you tell me
07-05-2008, 03:25 PM
#2
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Option C: = 
60Es have a hard time holding up behind mild LS1s, your 408 would quickly lunch a rebuilt unit. Why a 60E? I'd think a built 700R4 would go in easier, no need for a controller. 700 just needs proper linkage for your intake system so you can properly adjust TV cable.
Option A: = easiest. Well built 400 is a stout unit.
T56 is fun, but it will be most work to install, might be a lot less consistant at the track, unless you are a clutch/stick meister.
A lot of builders claim their built th350s will hold 600 na hp.
60Es have a hard time holding up behind mild LS1s, your 408 would quickly lunch a rebuilt unit. Why a 60E? I'd think a built 700R4 would go in easier, no need for a controller. 700 just needs proper linkage for your intake system so you can properly adjust TV cable. Option A: = easiest. Well built 400 is a stout unit.
T56 is fun, but it will be most work to install, might be a lot less consistant at the track, unless you are a clutch/stick meister.
A lot of builders claim their built th350s will hold 600 na hp.
07-05-2008, 07:19 PM
#4
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thanks for the input
and yes, a 700r4 would have been a better option lol. Just thought it would be easier to get a low miles 60e unit from the graveyard.
humm TH400 or T56....manual or auto...hard debate
where did you guys purchase your th400's and do you reccomend them?
and yes, a 700r4 would have been a better option lol. Just thought it would be easier to get a low miles 60e unit from the graveyard.
humm TH400 or T56....manual or auto...hard debate
where did you guys purchase your th400's and do you reccomend them?
07-05-2008, 08:33 PM
#5
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I'd go with the T56, if I had the cash on hand thats what I would have went with.. instead of my muncie thats about shot anyway..
They have pretty much everything to make it mount up in your car available, and it would be alot more fun to drive on the street.
They have pretty much everything to make it mount up in your car available, and it would be alot more fun to drive on the street.
07-07-2008, 09:52 PM
#7
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I'm pretty sure electronic's wise its a matter of the speedometer working which means you need an electronic speedo. Otherwise I think thats it, I was looking into doing it myself.
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...wap/index.html
Theres a section in there under transmission.
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...wap/index.html
Theres a section in there under transmission.
07-08-2008, 09:42 AM
#8
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Location: Virginia
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You might be able to find a 400 in craigslist or your local newspaper...they are bullet proof transmissions.
I had one in my 79Z and its the same one in the race car now and hasnt missed a beat and has been THRASHED with the trans brake and rev. manual valve body. Have a manual valve body is kinda like having a stick but not having to use a clutch,its great. And when you have a trans brake,thats just like dropping the clutch from whatever RPM.
If you want to try and get some fuel mileage out of it, do the 700 like angel said. They can be built A LOT better than a 60E and actually last without needing a PCM to run it. If you go into a trans shop and they tell you they cant make a 700 strong, leave immediately.
Why did you scrap the 350? You shouldve atleast sold it to someone else that couldve rebuilt it and used it.
I had one in my 79Z and its the same one in the race car now and hasnt missed a beat and has been THRASHED with the trans brake and rev. manual valve body. Have a manual valve body is kinda like having a stick but not having to use a clutch,its great. And when you have a trans brake,thats just like dropping the clutch from whatever RPM.
If you want to try and get some fuel mileage out of it, do the 700 like angel said. They can be built A LOT better than a 60E and actually last without needing a PCM to run it. If you go into a trans shop and they tell you they cant make a 700 strong, leave immediately.
Why did you scrap the 350? You shouldve atleast sold it to someone else that couldve rebuilt it and used it.
07-08-2008, 11:09 AM
#10
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200R4? You didn't mention this option....
Since its the same size as your old TH350 the swap would be that much easier. With a little modification I've seen the turbo buick guys put huge amounts of power through these.
Plus you'll get over drive...
Since its the same size as your old TH350 the swap would be that much easier. With a little modification I've seen the turbo buick guys put huge amounts of power through these.
Plus you'll get over drive...
07-10-2008, 08:40 PM
#12
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from my own experience, a th400 would be an end all way to go, but just get used to the idea of giving up a few HP at the wheels, adding a few pounds, and worse yet few more rotating pounds that you might be able to feel while you rev it. havent had one with a man. valvebody though, that might solve the slushy feel I had with the th400 I had back in the day.
what rear gears and tires will you have? how hard do you drive your car? who built the th350 you trashed? I know a guy here that goes high 8's with a th350, so realize they can also be built to take as much punishment as you want to give it.
since street driving/cruising is your main goal, I say 700r4, manual valve body, 9.5" Edge "street edge" convertor (LOVED MINE!) with lock up on a toggle switch on the dash for even better gas mileage and lower rpm freeway driving. easy hookup to your stock speedo too, and no need to mess with a TV cable setup if you go manual valve body. they can last in a 10 sec car though if built right.
never had the dough to buy a prof. built trans, but I would recomend either Probuilt or Cahall performance for the trans building. over the last 5 years, had a few trans' built for me by my trans guy at work (dealership tech). they have each helped me with my trans' questions before over the phone (for free, nice guys!), and they def. know what they're talking about.
chris
what rear gears and tires will you have? how hard do you drive your car? who built the th350 you trashed? I know a guy here that goes high 8's with a th350, so realize they can also be built to take as much punishment as you want to give it.
since street driving/cruising is your main goal, I say 700r4, manual valve body, 9.5" Edge "street edge" convertor (LOVED MINE!) with lock up on a toggle switch on the dash for even better gas mileage and lower rpm freeway driving. easy hookup to your stock speedo too, and no need to mess with a TV cable setup if you go manual valve body. they can last in a 10 sec car though if built right.
never had the dough to buy a prof. built trans, but I would recomend either Probuilt or Cahall performance for the trans building. over the last 5 years, had a few trans' built for me by my trans guy at work (dealership tech). they have each helped me with my trans' questions before over the phone (for free, nice guys!), and they def. know what they're talking about.
chris
07-10-2008, 09:09 PM
#13
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I am 90% sure i want to go with a TH400 for now. Budget permiting in the future, i can always slap on a gear vendors overdrive like mentioned above (good idea!). This would give me the OD. Manual valve body and trans break=
So whats the best way to go about doing this?
junker/private party and have it rebuilt?
Racing distributor, order online?
FYI I will make the car a 10 sec car, motor can handle some nitrous to get me there (already 550hp)
as far as the rear end goes, forget it! Its wasted 10 bolt with 255 rear tires. Going to build a 12 bolt with C clip emlinators, mini tub, and 305-315 rear tires
So whats the best way to go about doing this?
junker/private party and have it rebuilt?
Racing distributor, order online?
FYI I will make the car a 10 sec car, motor can handle some nitrous to get me there
(already 550hp)as far as the rear end goes, forget it! Its wasted 10 bolt with 255 rear tires. Going to build a 12 bolt with C clip emlinators, mini tub, and 305-315 rear tires
Last edited by User56898; 07-10-2008 at 09:11 PM.
07-11-2008, 04:36 PM
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another idea:
My buddy is a certified ASE mech. at a dealership in the process of building his own shop. I know he can rebuild TH400 transmissions and most others as well. (anytime i get a trans job i let him rebuild them). How hard is it to install a shift kit, trans brake, manual vavle body, etc?
should i buy a junker and have him rebuild it?
Buy one from a race shop already build for around 1K?
My buddy is a certified ASE mech. at a dealership in the process of building his own shop. I know he can rebuild TH400 transmissions and most others as well. (anytime i get a trans job i let him rebuild them). How hard is it to install a shift kit, trans brake, manual vavle body, etc?
should i buy a junker and have him rebuild it?
Buy one from a race shop already build for around 1K?
