next week i plan on installing a 200 r4 in my car. the magzines say its a bolt in, is this true. and before you tell me the trans wont hold up ive had three grand nationals and three super sports and never had a problem with the trans.

 

It bolt's up with some minor mods to the TH400 crossmember

 

I had A CPT 200R4installed in my 69 last week. I had to cut the drivshaft about 1 1/2"and get a new yolk. The crossmember had to be notched a lot and replated for strengeth. You must make sure the detent cable is perfectly in sink or you will roast the trans.It goes in but it is not a bolt in install. I drives great w/ my12 bolt and 3:55s. It flies on the highway. Brian



http://community.webshots.com/user/69ssrag

 

Depends on which trans you're replacing. With a TH350/powerglide/4-speed combo the driveshaft and yoke remain the same (except for the M22 which I believe uses a TH400 style yoke). Bottom line the 2004R is the same length as a TH350/4 speed and uses the same TH350 yoke. It has the trans pad further back in the TH400 location though which is why you use the TH400 crossmember. On some of them some minor notching is required to the crossmember for oil pan clearance. There are crossmembers from Bowtie overdrive and others that will bolt-in without mods.

I will not knock you for your decision. I had a fully built 2004R behind an 800+ rwhp big block with no problems at all.

Jody

 

i too have 3.55's what did your car have in it before a 400? if i have to get my driveshaft cut i might as well go with the 700 right? you and i know that the 2004r is alright, but not many people want to touch them. what size engine, and what size stall. if you had to get a differnt yolk it must have been a 400, why did you choose a 2004r instead of the700r4

 

Sounds like you're talking to me and the other guy but I'll answer for myself. Mine started as a ZL-1 clone with a TH400. The 2004R was a direct bolt-in but the driveshaft and yoke were changed. With a TH350 it would have not needed changing. I ran 3.73 gears as that is what the 12 bolt had in it when I bought it. I used a 2800 stall lock-up convereter. I started with a 468 and ended up with a ProCharged 540. I chose the 2004R because fully modded they can handle more power than a 4L60/700R4. At least at the time I built my car. They are definitely making progress with the 700's but not sure they've caught the 2004R yet. Maybe.

Jody

 

Jody is right. I did have a T400 which was screamin 3000rpms. @about 60mph and I was tired of getting clobbered in the right lane on the highway. The car has a 350/330hp vortech crate and 11"2000 stall. The place who sold me the trans said it was a direct bolt in. My guy made it fit like it was factory. It was just a little extra work. Imo I would go w/ A built 200 vs the 700. Jody is more of A tech guy than I am. Good luck. Let me know how it turns out. Brian

 

Jody,
You have17" torque thrust IIs on your car? I have stock suspention front discs rear drums and I called American racing to check the fiment on the same wheels. They told me the only thing that will fit is 17x7 front & 17 x8 in the rear. I have lakewood traction bars under the leaf. the shock is bolted to the traction bar with about 1" of space. I have heard of people doing 17x8 front & 17x91/2 rear. I am afraid of having a disaster. What do you think? Thanks. Brian

 

I have fit or seen people fit the 17X8 with 4.75 to 5" b.s. up front and the 17X9.5" with 5.5" b.s. more times than I can count. I know it fits. I ran Cal Tracs on the yellow car and they cleared fine. I can't speak for the Lakewoods, haven't tried them.

I usually recommend a 245/45 up front and a 275/40 in the rear with the wheels above. That is about as big as will fit without mini-tubbing or jacking the rear end up in the air.

Jody

 

American Racing told you that? Wow, are they ever covering their @ss. Jody's right, everyone is running that wheel and tire size combo. Well, almost everyone.

 

I agree guys, I also saw it on A guys car last summer. What do I do?? My friend/mechanic is now convinced it will not work because I had him talk with this guy at American who wants to take the easy way out. Is there A way to measure or should I try to call somone else @ American Racing or somewhare else? I think it will make a big difference but I want to make sure I dont end up with any ash trays. Thanks for the help again. Brian

 

Here's what you do... go buy a set of wheels and tires EXACTLY how Jody (Camcojb) spec'd out, and you're set. When I had 17's, that's exactly the combination I used (4.75" BS on the front) and it worked perfect. At the time, everything on my 69 was stock, with disk brakes in the front and drums in the rear.

BTW, you can click on the link on my signature and see plenty of pics with that setup.

 

Check out Scott's site above as it's well worth it. Then click on my site from the link on Scott's or my link below. The yellow 69 and the blue 69 (Don Estel) both have the exact width and offset wheels I told you about. Believe me, this works.

Jody

 

Thanks Jody & Scott,
I agree with you both and I saw it on 1 guys car but he said they were custom built and he waited 8 weeks.. I know you guys know what you are talking about. I am going to just do it as soon as I get a chance. Thanks again.
Brian.

A convertable should be the same?

 

Convertible is the same. The best price and fastest deliver I've found was from Wheels for less

Jody