Slide-a-link Traction Bars
I installed the Competition Engineering Slide-a-link Traction Bars on my car about 3 weeks ago, and wanted to know, am I supposed to check on these things frequently to make sure the tubes keep thier 1/4" gap? My gap seem to move around a little bit on mine and was unsure if this was normal
I'd contact the company. I recall that the gap varies depending on the ride height. So if it was on a slight hill, or loaded with more or less stuff in the rear, full vs. empty tank things might move around a little.
I also beleive the gap is supposed to be measured with the axle at full droop, up on jack stands with the axle hanging down, not at actual ride height with weight on. I could be wrong about that, though.
I've always wanted to try these things out but I haven't owned a leaf spring rear car for a while.
I also beleive the gap is supposed to be measured with the axle at full droop, up on jack stands with the axle hanging down, not at actual ride height with weight on. I could be wrong about that, though.
I've always wanted to try these things out but I haven't owned a leaf spring rear car for a while.
Trust me, you aren't missing anything by having rear Coil. The launch on a Gen 1 camaro is rediculously bad. I have done basically everything bolt on i can, and they help, but not enough.
What exactly have you "bolted" on? There are many people running 8 and 9 sec 1/4 miles with "bolt" ons on their 1st gen without any problems. If you have any questions about what really works just ask. There are plenty of guys here who can help
I obviously havent done every bolt on, but I have upgraded to an eaton limited-slip differential with richmond 3.73's. Also bolted on some stanley multi leaf rear springs. Also, obviously the slide-a-link traction bars. Im not a big fan of welding on parts, and some drag radials would probably help(stupid for not thinking of that first). If anyone has anyother tricks for helping out more, i would like to hear them. Is weighing down the back-end a help or hinder?
Solid bushings on the front eyelet of the leaf spring, welding the axel tubes to the housing, drag shocks, loosen up the front end movement to help with the weight transfer, just to name a few.
I had regular Lakewood trac-bars on my '81, and IMO, it got pretty good traction (straight line) for running on street tires..........a lot better than my '02 gets
. I find that the '02 will kick out the back end a lot easier, whereas the '81 would A) hardly spin, and B) stay straight even if/when it did. So I wouldn't knock leaf-spring suspension.
I believe that the height adjustment of the bars should be set with the car sitting on all fours, on level ground, and not suspended in the air?
And as far as maintaining the gap, Damon may have a good point about whether the car is loaded, or on a hill for keeping the same gap. It's probably not a bad idea to keep an eye on it though..........same as everything else on the car, right?!
. I find that the '02 will kick out the back end a lot easier, whereas the '81 would A) hardly spin, and B) stay straight even if/when it did. So I wouldn't knock leaf-spring suspension.I believe that the height adjustment of the bars should be set with the car sitting on all fours, on level ground, and not suspended in the air?
And as far as maintaining the gap, Damon may have a good point about whether the car is loaded, or on a hill for keeping the same gap. It's probably not a bad idea to keep an eye on it though..........same as everything else on the car, right?!
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