Hi first time post. Im trying to start up a 1967 camaro this will be the first time in 20 years can you give me some tips or how to do this with out wrecking the engine. Thanks

 

20 years?!? Wow, Ichabod Camaro. Welcome aboard. Pics?

Anyway, I'd recommend dropping the fuel tank for a cleaning/inspection, clean out the fuel lines, rebuild the carb, r&r the oil/filter & coolant. Use the long truck type filter, cost is the same, more filtering area. You could clean out old battery cables, but I'd replace them too. They can sometimes go bad inside the crimped lugs. Put a quality battery in it, maybe an Optima if your tray area is still uncorroded and you want to keep it that way. Check/clean connections at starter/alternator/regulator b4 you hook up your new battery.

Use extreme care when dealing with the fuel system. Even the heat of a drop lamp can light off the fumes.

I'd put in a new thermostat to make sure the old one isn't corroded shut. I like to drill a 1/8" hole in the perimeter of Tstat body so you don't have to burp the system at startup. Some Tstats already come holed, with a floating stud in it. A complete tune up would be good too. When you are replacing the plugs, squirt WD40 in there and turn the engine with a breaker bar to make sure it hasn't seized.

You can disconnect the power connection at the coil and crank the starter till you get oil pressure. This way you can be sure the engine isn't dry b4 you fire it up. If you want to be ****, use an oil can to squirt oil into the hole that goes sideways into block when you take the old oil filter off. This passage leads up from oil pump, squirting oil in there makes sure pump is primed.

BTW, motor oil has changed since your Camaro hit the sack. Oil these days has much reduced zinc content for emission equipment longevity on newer vehicles. Zinc helps protect the flat tappet type cam/lifters. Diesel oil still has zinc in it (for now), but you can find additives with zinc in it.

BTW #2, coolant has changed too. Don't use the DexCool type orange stuff. I used it once on my 71 when it came out years ago and not much about it was known. I found little lumps of crud in my coolant, like chunks of tapioca. I needed a new radiator by then anyway, so I went back to the green stuff when I R&Rd it. I read in a mag later that the orange stuff attacks the lead in old style radiators.

edit: if it's an automatic, look out for the grease in the neutral/safety switch having solidified causing a "will not crank" condition.

 

I did the same on the 327 out of my 66 Corvette. Engine hadn't turned in about 23 years.

angel had some good suggestions. I'd also pull the plugs & shoot some Marvel Mystery Oil into the cylinders. Let it sit at least overnight, shoot more oil into the cylinders and turn it by hand with a 1/2" drive ratchet or breaker bar at the crank/balancer bolt.

If it has power steering, double check the reservoir to make sure all the fluid hasn't leaked out from dried out seals after all these years. My power steering AND brake master cylinder were bone dry from leaks on my Vette.

When you finally turn the motor over, make sure that you're getting fuel pressure after the pump as the rubber/diaphram in your fuel pump may have dried out after all these years. Another problem I had on my Vette!!

I didn't drop the fuel tank, but I installed a filter between the tank and my fuel pump to catch any sediment before it had a chance to possibly ruin my new fuel pump.

Good Luck!

 

K Cool Thanks.

 

pics?