Roll Cage
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 62
From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
If you want a cage that looks good, get a good custom builder in your area to build it. Bolt in cages don't stiffen the car as much as a custom weld-in. And a weld in 'kit' also can take a car that looks great and make it look cheap and hacked together.
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 62
From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
I'm not a cage builder, but I know one and am getting ready for my install.
I wouldn't take measurements... measure and fit as you go. you'll get it tighter that way. Just go slow, and you'll be good. Oh yeah, and make sure you use quality DOM tubing and if you can a Tig welder. with an experienced TIG welder.... It'll look all that much better in the end.
I wouldn't take measurements... measure and fit as you go. you'll get it tighter that way. Just go slow, and you'll be good. Oh yeah, and make sure you use quality DOM tubing and if you can a Tig welder. with an experienced TIG welder.... It'll look all that much better in the end.
Registered User
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 59
From: Gainesville,FL
This is an 81. I bought a kit from S&W Racecars and the fit and quality was great. I did all the cutting and notching myself and had a friend weld it up at his shop. There are some pictures of the install here:
http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/jst8a50/l...ore...&.view=t
and here are some of the finished product:
http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/jst8a50/l...ter...&.view=t
http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/jst8a50/l...ore...&.view=t
and here are some of the finished product:
http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/jst8a50/l...ter...&.view=t
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 62
From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
That looks very nice... but it still suffers from the inherent problems of a pre-fab.
With a roll bar though it's a lot easier to get away with a pre fab and have it's fit and finish be very nice.
A full cage has more to it. Such as a front hoop that goes over the front windshield. There is a bar that goes from the rear hoop to the front hoop at waist level on the driver and passenger sides. Much like the bars that go down to the floorboards on your car.
This combined with what you have is what I'm going to get. This is all I need to do hill climbs in my car.
For road racing, there is also a dash bar that goes between the front hoop at dash level. As well as foot bars. The go from the front hoop down to the firewall on both sides.
Basically once you integrate the front hoop into the equation, I wouldn't get a kit in unless i had no other choice. The more headroom you have, the safer the car is. So the tighter the overhead bars are to the headliner, the safer the car is. Also, the kits have no idea if you have power windows or winders... If you have power windows, you can have the side bars in a different, and potentially safer place than if you have winders. Or as I've seen in some applications, the door bars go right over the winders and you have to open the door, put the winder handle on the door, wind the window to where you want it, take the handle back off, and close the door again. This is quite a pain, especially if the car is to remain a daily driver.
Anyway, just some things to take into consideration...
With a roll bar though it's a lot easier to get away with a pre fab and have it's fit and finish be very nice.
A full cage has more to it. Such as a front hoop that goes over the front windshield. There is a bar that goes from the rear hoop to the front hoop at waist level on the driver and passenger sides. Much like the bars that go down to the floorboards on your car.
This combined with what you have is what I'm going to get. This is all I need to do hill climbs in my car.
For road racing, there is also a dash bar that goes between the front hoop at dash level. As well as foot bars. The go from the front hoop down to the firewall on both sides.
Basically once you integrate the front hoop into the equation, I wouldn't get a kit in unless i had no other choice. The more headroom you have, the safer the car is. So the tighter the overhead bars are to the headliner, the safer the car is. Also, the kits have no idea if you have power windows or winders... If you have power windows, you can have the side bars in a different, and potentially safer place than if you have winders. Or as I've seen in some applications, the door bars go right over the winders and you have to open the door, put the winder handle on the door, wind the window to where you want it, take the handle back off, and close the door again. This is quite a pain, especially if the car is to remain a daily driver.
Anyway, just some things to take into consideration...
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 702
From: Houston, TX USA
I've installed a few different kits in 2nd gens, there are some pics here:
Projects page
I prefer the kits with a solid front hoop for ease of install, but the ones with the front bar seperate can be made to fit much better.
All the kits I have messed with have extra length, so you can trim to fit, and I usually have new rear downtubes made, with a couple bends to go thru the package tray, rather than the middle of the back seat. I also recommend weld in frame connectors, and tying the cage into the stock subframe and the connectors.
On the rear, try to have the diagonal supports pick up the front spring eyes, and the rear down tubes attach as close to the shock mounts as possible. On a road race car, I would recommend the rear tubes go all the way to the rear spring mounts, and add a x-brace to connect to the shock points. that will stiffen all the major suspension load points. You might also consider a "halo bar" around the front, with supports to the frame close to the control arms..
Projects page
I prefer the kits with a solid front hoop for ease of install, but the ones with the front bar seperate can be made to fit much better.
All the kits I have messed with have extra length, so you can trim to fit, and I usually have new rear downtubes made, with a couple bends to go thru the package tray, rather than the middle of the back seat. I also recommend weld in frame connectors, and tying the cage into the stock subframe and the connectors.
On the rear, try to have the diagonal supports pick up the front spring eyes, and the rear down tubes attach as close to the shock mounts as possible. On a road race car, I would recommend the rear tubes go all the way to the rear spring mounts, and add a x-brace to connect to the shock points. that will stiffen all the major suspension load points. You might also consider a "halo bar" around the front, with supports to the frame close to the control arms..
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