Rocker Arms?
I take it you're talking about adjusting the valves on a chevy. If so, take a look at these:
http://www.thedirtforum.com/chevyvalves.htm
http://www.chevelles.com/techref/tecref17.html
http://www.centuryperformance.com/valveadjustment.asp
But if you're already doing that and it seems like after you tighten the rocker arm down and the push rod and/or rocker is loose as soon as you remove your ratchet/socket......just keep your socket from bottoming out on the rocker arm as you tighten it down as it will give you a false zero lash indication.
Trust me, I know....I thought I was going nuts when I was adjusting the valves on my Vette a couple of weeks ago until I realised what was happening.
http://www.thedirtforum.com/chevyvalves.htm
http://www.chevelles.com/techref/tecref17.html
http://www.centuryperformance.com/valveadjustment.asp
But if you're already doing that and it seems like after you tighten the rocker arm down and the push rod and/or rocker is loose as soon as you remove your ratchet/socket......just keep your socket from bottoming out on the rocker arm as you tighten it down as it will give you a false zero lash indication.
Trust me, I know....I thought I was going nuts when I was adjusting the valves on my Vette a couple of weeks ago until I realised what was happening.
Last edited by Ron78Z&01SS; Sep 24, 2007 at 09:37 AM.
it is sooo much easier and accurate to do it with the car running, just take off your valve covers, one at a time and cut some cardboard to fit inside your head so oil doesnt splash everywhere. just start the car up and go through one at a time loosening the nut until it starts rattling then tighten it up SLOWLY until it gets quiet then tighten it a half turn, just do that all the way around and ure done. if they keep coming loose..get some poly locks
If they keep coming loose and you are running stock nuts, the threads are probably worn out on the crimp nuts.
If you are running poly locks, make sure the top of the studs have been machined flat. The set screw won't stay tight on the tapered top typically found on the studs that results from the threads being rolled on the stud.
If it's a mid/late 70s engine, Chevy had problems with the metallurgy of the cams/lifters. They would wear slowly resulting in lash that required adjustment. But eventually you ran out of lobe/lifter bottom. The same thing can happen on flat tappet cams today if you don't add zinc or run diesel oil. Zinc (ZDDP) has been severely reduced on newer spec oils for emissions reasons, so it's bad for flat tappet cams. Especially the XE series from Comp Cams cause they have really aggressive lobes.
If you are running poly locks, make sure the top of the studs have been machined flat. The set screw won't stay tight on the tapered top typically found on the studs that results from the threads being rolled on the stud.
If it's a mid/late 70s engine, Chevy had problems with the metallurgy of the cams/lifters. They would wear slowly resulting in lash that required adjustment. But eventually you ran out of lobe/lifter bottom. The same thing can happen on flat tappet cams today if you don't add zinc or run diesel oil. Zinc (ZDDP) has been severely reduced on newer spec oils for emissions reasons, so it's bad for flat tappet cams. Especially the XE series from Comp Cams cause they have really aggressive lobes.
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