...on stock 15" Rally wheels?

Thanks ahead of time guys....

 

As tight as I can twist the lug wrench by hand in an alternating criss-cross pattern... twice for good messure.

 

I figure that I drove it a week before finding out I was missing a lug nut on each wheel, I can survice this.

 

90lbs is the spec. Do them to 100lbs.

 

Tight enough that the wheel doesn't fall.

Factory rims, steel or aluminum, will take quite a bit of abuse from over-tightening. Doesn't mean you have to push them to the limit. Just remember that the HUB takes the up-and-down pounding over potholes and such. The lugs are just there so the wheel can't pop off the hub when under side-loads from making turns and such.

 

Stock steel wheels need less torque than aliminum wheels because the raised shape of the contact point around each stud acts like a Belleville or cupped spring washer. Aluminum wheels don't have this feature and require 100 ft-lb (late model GM 12 mm bolt specs).

With 7/16 dia. studs, don't go that high. The 90 sounds about the max.

Tighten in at least two steps in the criss-cross pattern. 40-50 then 60-70 then final torque reading helps keep drum or disk from warping.

ALWAYS use a torque wrench. The only exception might be "torque sticks" as sold by Snap-On and others, which when used with an impact gun limit the torque to their design spec. Not many guys have them in their toolbox, and fewer use two of them when installing tires.

My $.02.

 

87-7/9 flbs










100 is lots