New Power for my 1967 German Camaro
#1
New Power for my 1967 German Camaro
This is the engine build for my 1967 German Camaro. The original engine, being tired, I crated it and started the search for a drive-able replacement. I don't want a trailer queen, I want an overbuilt car that will start, and FINISH the HotRod Power Tour.
This is the engine I started out with. I built it in my Dorm Room in Wiesbaden Germany, with parts ordered from PAW.
When I came home in 1987, I was able to get the engine to a machine shop, clean it up and build it right.
This is the engine I started out with. I built it in my Dorm Room in Wiesbaden Germany, with parts ordered from PAW.
When I came home in 1987, I was able to get the engine to a machine shop, clean it up and build it right.
#2
Re: New Power for my 1967 German Camaro
Now 26 years have passed and it is time to do it again. The drive was to remove as much friction as I could. Make it breath easy, and move without restriction.
I started out with a 1992 Chevy Truck four bolt block with a one piece rear main seal. It was a Low Mileage block with std. bore and no ring ridge.
I know it doesn't look like much, But you have to start somewhere.
I started out with a 1992 Chevy Truck four bolt block with a one piece rear main seal. It was a Low Mileage block with std. bore and no ring ridge.
I know it doesn't look like much, But you have to start somewhere.
#3
Re: New Power for my 1967 German Camaro
We fire cleaned, and media blasted the block to remove any rust and dirt.
It was then line honed through the cam and crank bearings to be sure it was straight. The cylinders were bored, 4.030 through Torque plates, again to make sure it would all be true with the heads installed.
The crank and rods were checked too make sure the balance was correct,
Some correct Orange paint, and the assembly began,
For the cam bearings I used are Durabond with Anti-Friction coating, and the Mains are Clevite again with the Anti-Friction coating. I used STP during assembly and with the anti-friction coating the rotating assembly moves easily. I did my best to reduce any friction, as much as possible. I am also using a Fidanza Forged Aluminum Flywheel. At only 11 lbs, it should help with parasitic loss. Even the crank, Eagle Forged with ESP Armor, is made to shed oil and reduce resistance.
The rods are Eagle H-Beam
The pistons are MAHLE Forged Flat Tops with Grafal anti friction coating.
It was then line honed through the cam and crank bearings to be sure it was straight. The cylinders were bored, 4.030 through Torque plates, again to make sure it would all be true with the heads installed.
The crank and rods were checked too make sure the balance was correct,
Some correct Orange paint, and the assembly began,
For the cam bearings I used are Durabond with Anti-Friction coating, and the Mains are Clevite again with the Anti-Friction coating. I used STP during assembly and with the anti-friction coating the rotating assembly moves easily. I did my best to reduce any friction, as much as possible. I am also using a Fidanza Forged Aluminum Flywheel. At only 11 lbs, it should help with parasitic loss. Even the crank, Eagle Forged with ESP Armor, is made to shed oil and reduce resistance.
The rods are Eagle H-Beam
The pistons are MAHLE Forged Flat Tops with Grafal anti friction coating.
#5
Re: New Power for my 1967 German Camaro
The cam is a Comp Cams
The cam is a Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller XR276HR
Intake .503
Exhaust .510
Duration Seat to seat
Intake 276.00
Exhaust 281.00
__________________
Again Hydraulic Roller to get as much friction out as possible.
The cam is a Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller XR276HR
Intake .503
Exhaust .510
Duration Seat to seat
Intake 276.00
Exhaust 281.00
__________________
Again Hydraulic Roller to get as much friction out as possible.
#6
Re: New Power for my 1967 German Camaro
For the heads, I ordered a set of AFR 195 CNC Ported cylinder heads with 65cc combustion chambers, and titanium spring retainers and keepers to reduce weight in the valve train.
#7
Re: New Power for my 1967 German Camaro
For the Valve train again I went with Comp Cams Push Rods, and Pro Magnum Ultra Roller Rockers. Then for increased stability I installed a set of Crane Stud Girdles.
#8
Re: New Power for my 1967 German Camaro
The oil pan is a Canton with kick outs on both sides and doors to keep the oil where it is supposed to be.
The Valve covers are Chrome Ball Milled Aluminum
as is the Timing cover.
The balancer is a 6" Fluid damper, and the oil pump is a Melling HV CNC Oil Pump 10552 with bolt on Pickup. This is only 10% above stock volume and with a Standard pressure spring installed. The intake is an Edelbroch RPM Air GAP with Endurashine. I did not want to have any weakness, to include I do not want to have to polish polished Aluminum for hours. This should be quite the runner once it is installed, and it should be able to run pump gas with no problems.
The Valve covers are Chrome Ball Milled Aluminum
as is the Timing cover.
The balancer is a 6" Fluid damper, and the oil pump is a Melling HV CNC Oil Pump 10552 with bolt on Pickup. This is only 10% above stock volume and with a Standard pressure spring installed. The intake is an Edelbroch RPM Air GAP with Endurashine. I did not want to have any weakness, to include I do not want to have to polish polished Aluminum for hours. This should be quite the runner once it is installed, and it should be able to run pump gas with no problems.
#10
Re: New Power for my 1967 German Camaro
A power update would not be complete without a new way to put it to the ground. After shopping cost to have the tired old Muncie (46 year old Race Car Transmission) rebuilt again, it seemed a better idea to replace it with an upgraded overdrive transmission. After careful consideration, I chose the Keisler RS500 Perfect Fit Kit. When replacing a part like this you are looking to get the most bang for your buck. With the Trans, Drive Shaft, Shifter, Clutch, and cross member all in one kit, I should not have to source any additional parts, and using the Perfect Fit kit, It is pourpos built fr my car. Not a used Tremic, or even a Mexican Built Tremic that was redesigned to fit. The shift problems of the Tremic are also not present with the RS500.
Unlike the Muncie, there is no external linkage to be worn, bent or adjusted. I really like the simplicity, and the 0.67 overdrive should allow the new 355 engine to live a long happy life. The FAST EZ EFI 2.0 and the 5 speed should allow this 1967 Camaro to get better Gas Mileage than it was ever able to get even new.
Now I am going to assemble this to the Engine, slide the entire set, assembled, into the car and begin ti install the front sheet metal.
The final step is to pull the rear end back out, and replace the seals, brakes and axels, and the Drive line wil;l be finished.
Unlike the Muncie, there is no external linkage to be worn, bent or adjusted. I really like the simplicity, and the 0.67 overdrive should allow the new 355 engine to live a long happy life. The FAST EZ EFI 2.0 and the 5 speed should allow this 1967 Camaro to get better Gas Mileage than it was ever able to get even new.
Now I am going to assemble this to the Engine, slide the entire set, assembled, into the car and begin ti install the front sheet metal.
The final step is to pull the rear end back out, and replace the seals, brakes and axels, and the Drive line wil;l be finished.
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