I've been working quietly and slowly for the last several years on my TPIS Minirammed, stroker 385 engine, and I was looking at finally bolting on the competition ported AFR195 cylinder heads today. I checked the piston to valve clearance, and I've got TONS of room, so it looked like a green light for bolting on the heads.

However, as I opened the package for one of my 1010 Felpro gaskets, the directions pointed out that I should have increased the center coolant hole to 7/16"and drilled an additional hole, if it wasn't already there. Of course, the directions state that I should machine in the holes BEFORE complete assembly.

Since I have a "388" block that was manufactured in September of 1968, the revised coolant holes are not there. So, I have three options:

1) Disassemble the whole darned shortblock, machine the holes, clean it up, pay for some more cam bearings, and reassemble.
2) Mask off the entire engine, slowly drill the hole, and carefully extract as many chips as possible by packing the bit with axle grease.
3) Ignore Felpro and just forget about the center coolant holes.

So, what's your opinion? I am especially interested to hear from you if you've encountered this situation before, and if you have seen any reliability problems with ignoring the Felpro call to drill.

--Dan Burk

 

I think those gaskets restrict the size on the outer cylinder coolant holes to redirect flow to the center holes it's asking you to drill. Might not have enough flow through the block if you don't drill. I think you should talk to, or e-mail, Felpro.

I've done valve reliefs on piston tops of assembled engines by being careful, using masking, and vacuuming compulsively after the whacking. Don't see why you couldn't do the same if you do have to drill the holes.

 

This sounds like it only requires drilling? If so, put it on an engine stand, and turn it so your drilling from underneath.

 

Well, I did it today. It was easiest to just tape the whole thing up with three-inch masking tape, then drill the holes while holding a shop-vac to suck up the chips.

Actually, there was five holes to drill: Two new 7/16 holes, two that I enlarged to 7/16, and one 1/4 inch coolant hole by cylinder #1 that was missing for some weird reason. After drilling, I chamfered them so that they look factory.

Now I am nearly ready to torque down the cylinder heads. I have the valvetrain mocked up to check for interference & proper rocker arm alignment. There's some issues there, but I'll figure it out soon.

FYI, the motor is a roller cammed 385 stroker with all forged 4340 steel crank / H-beam rods, and ARP studs & fasteners everywhere. It is also internally balanced, and has AFR 195's that flow 200 cfm on the exhaust and 260 cfm on the intake.

It should go okay, if I ever finish it!